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MG TD TF 1500 - Rear Steer Advice

Gents,

Talking about a late 1953 TD with a stock drive train.
Recently when accelerating briskly the rear end wants to steer to the left. Repeatable each time you step on the accelerator. Returns straight when accelerator is released.

Archives say it is a common problem on many MG models but mostly say I had a problem and I fixed it. Not too helpful.

So far I have checked the axel housing u-bolts. When the jam nuts were loosened I got about two turns on each nut. Some slightly more some less. Inspected springs and found no sign of of movement such as disturbed rust and dirt. Inspected rubber cushions which seem to be in good condition with no apparent rot or age cracking.

Before I put her back on the ground I will check the bushings at the front end of the springs. What do you think? Also, I'm ready to hear about others with similar experience or like problems. TIA


Jim Haskins 1953 TDA
J. M. Haskins

I suspect you've got it whipped Jim. That symptom is usually resolved by the actions you have completed. You found them loose...so that is a good thing. The U-Bolts can wear the Axle...and I expect that wear would be accelerated when they are loose. Some Folks use a ' U-Bolt Shield ' as fitted to the MGA to reduce this wear point.
Take it out and try it! Let's hope ya got her fixed!

Mike
TF-8257
M Brand

"Some Folks use a ' U-Bolt Shield ' as fitted to the MGA to reduce this wear point."

I would gone one step further saying it is highly recommended. Unless you continually check the tightness of the 'U' on the rear axle, the 'U' bolts will continually wear into the rear axle housing - I have seen them worn nearly all the way through. If I remember, Dave Clark sends a set of U-Bolt Shields with the rear axles that he modifies. Cheers - Dave
DW DuBois

All you need is a square metal plate, bent to the curvature of the axle. No side upstands necessary if the U bolts tightened properly. If the axle casing is badly indented, fill it in with epoxy.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Agree with above. Other issue is that you run out of threads. You can't see as the last threads are hidden under the lower plate. Due to housing and rubber pad wear, you may need a couple flat washers under the nuts. George
George Butz

Check the centering bolt that locates the leaves of the spring, it may be broken.
Len Fanelli

Thank you for the advice. The troubleshooting continues today. When she is back on the ground I will bring you up to date.


Jim Haskins
J. M. Haskins

Jim if you do decide to replace the front bushing & the rear rubbers you might feel the urge to go the whole hog & consider replacing the inter-leaf rubbers. If so, BEFORE dismantling the springs, measure the eye to eye distance. This is critical. On reassembly check that this dimension hasn't been reduced as thicker inter-leaf rubbers will do this & can cause serious panel damage to the rear apron & guards if the rear shackle decides to spring up. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

I would recommend using the TF rear springs, they lower the rear very slightly and give better handling, Same for using the MGB RB performance 480# front springs and a MGB front sway or anti roll bar.
Len
Abingdon Performance LLC,
Len Fanelli

This thread was discussed between 14/08/2017 and 15/08/2017

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