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MG TD TF 1500 - Removed the sump

Bit the Bullet today, not a big deal?, well it is when your anxiety disorder, PTSD, fright disorder and all the other nasties I inherited from Nam are banging at the door, anyway it's off and I must say I am not surprised this TF was leaking oil, it certainly wasn't "just a little bit" like the previous owner said, first thing I noticed was that the ends of the sump gasket at the front were cut about an inch short of the rope seal so there was an inch of bare metal butting up to the crank case, the sump gasket itself , a cork type was broken in places, the rear cork strip was in place but virtually unrecognisable.
I read before about lying on a cold shed floor doing this job and I concur with everything that member said.
So now I will let all the oil drain away, let my head get back to normal ( joke) then get under it again and install sump gasket , front lip seal and rear cork strip.
I would like to remove the oil strainer from the sump is there anything I should be aware of before I do that.

Thanks
George
G Mills

George

Just to remember to reinstall the gasket between the oil strainer and the pan wall. It will really get those nasties banging on the door when you find no oil pressure and you have to pull the pan off again. Been there done that.

PS. Some may disagree, but I had my pan finely milled at my local machine shop to get it perfectly flat. Have done this with two TD engines and with that, and paying attention to getting the gasket/seal as perfect as I can, and torquing the pan bolts, I can honestly say that my TD has no leaks that it was not designed to have.
Bruce Cunha

Thanks for that Bruce, re the gasket I did buy a ANG gasket set but there is no gasket in it for that, what is the gasket like would it be easy to make or should I just leave it as it is.

Regards

George

G Mills

It's a simple gasket that you can cut yourself from thing gasket paper but unless there is a lot of crud in it, I'd leave the strainer in place (assuming the engine ran before with good oil pressure).
Willem van der Veer

George - You have e-mail. Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

Took the oil pickup off, boy glad I did the strainer was at least 95% blocked, crud backing up to virtually fill the strainer receptacle, Gasket no longer a worry , easy to make, I'M happy.
Thanks to all who have put up with me so far and who's advice has really helped me out.
regards

George
G Mills

George, did you make some Pictures?
Did you pull out the engine?
I have to do the same as you did next time the tread for my drain plug is damaged. I have already another pan but I don't like to pull the engine out. I will try to install the "new" one from below the car.
Thank you for any Information or advice.
Guenter
GK Guenter

Hello Guenter,
No I did not pull the engine out of the car. I was very nervous doing this but I have some great help from members here and have just gone about it step by step, honestly the hardest thing was laying on my back on a concrete floor.
I took the Timing cover off that is easy
Then the sump, at this stage I did not drop the exhaust pipe but I feel I will have to when I put the sump back on.
Sorry no photos.
I will post how I went when I get the sump back on.

Regards

George
G Mills

Hi George, I'm the guy who spent the time on his back on the concrete floor. Today may be the day that I fire Lazarus up and get a chance to see how successful the operation was. One more thing while you have the sump on the bench. Have a look at the clutch fulcrum pin that you have been using. Is the one on the other side of the sump unused? Just takes a few moments to swap them. Bud
Bud Krueger

While the sump is off, replace the rod bolts unless you are sure of their history. Very common for them to be badly stretched, and for some years back in the day no new ones were available. George
George Butz

Great advice, you have all made life a lot easier for me and I thank you for that.
I am off to try and buy the front crankshaft seal today, I say try as not everything that is available in the rest of the world is available here, and now I need to try and find the seal numbers that were posted here.

Regards

George
G Mills

George, the seal is very generic. I don't think he'll mind, so here's what Dave Sander told me about the seal:

The seal is from an '88 Volvo. It is a camshaft seal, and I have always been able to source it from a local auto parts store. They seam to stock this seal, so availability should not be an issue. The part numbers are: gates pn ks 13945, national # 1172, fel pro TCS 45725.

Hope that helps. Bud
Bud Krueger

Thanks Bud, rang the supplier again today seems the first guy I spoke to a few days ago got things messed up by telling me the seal was not available, new guy today tells me 120 in stock, great only want one.
I was wondering if Aluminium Devcon would be better than the Silastic RTV type stuff most use to set the seal in place, it is not flexible but will form the correct shape of the seal body then if needed a bit of silastic to secure it in place.

Regards



george
G Mills

Got my front seal today 1172 equiv. 35x47x7 and the centre is too small to take the pulley, got me beat

Regards

George
G Mills

George.

I have posted this before, but this gives a bit more value to what George Butz posted.


Bruce Cunha

Has anyone bought a set of the Moss ARP rod bolts? I'd be grateful to hear. Thanks. Tom
t lange

George

Dont want to rain on your parade however if I found that much grunge in my sump I would be investigating the cause. Maybe a compression test would be a good starting point.

Front Oil Seal Part Numbers
by Dave DuBois
ID OD Width
Volvo cam oil seal P/N 6842273
Moss P/N 120-750
Chicago Rawhide P/N 13537 1.375” 1.832” 0.313”
or P/N 36x47x7 36mm 47mm 7mm

This explains your current problem.

I would only use Black RTV to fit up the seal, whatever dont use plumbimg silastic or a rigid medium.

There is plenty of good info on Daves web site, highly recommend "having a gecko".

You will conclude with a positive outcome, these engines set some nasty hurdles to overcome.

G Evans

Well further on, had my pulley size checked it is 36.03 mm, the national seal number 1172 size is 35mm
and that is too small to run on 36mm shaft.

Re gunk in sump most of it was a silicon type stuff obviously come off from when fitting gaskets

Compression test last week showed 175 on all cylinders not sure what it is supposed to be.
Regards

george
G Mills

This thread was discussed between 03/04/2014 and 05/04/2014

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