MG-Cars.info

Welcome to our Site for MG, Triumph and Austin-Healey Car Information.

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - removing pump from block

According to the Blower book the oil pump is removed from the block by using a "suitable pulller" on the drive gear shaft.Having made a gap between the pump face and the block I attached a puller between the gap and the spindle. However all that has happened is the drive shaft has moved into the sump and jammed against the camshaft. What have I done wrong please. Also although not mentioned or shown in schematics I assume there is a key in the slot in the drive gear/shaft.
JK Mazgaj

I do not understand how the body can come up and the shaft go down.
The shaft thrust is confined by the drive gear against the base and the driven (pumping gear) which has a circlip holding it in place.
My own pump just taps out of the block with the gear in place.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

Yes Ray that has what has always happen to any I've removed over the years. However in this particular case it only came up around 30mm before stopping. So I removed the clip on the top of the drive shaft in the "hope" that what was preventing it coming off further was released but all that happened was the shaft went down. One other point is that 5 of the pushrods currently don't come out. I haven't explored why yet. The car has been off the road since the mid 50s with no history as to why.
JK Mazgaj

Sounds like it is just frozen in. I think a bit of release oil, heat on the block (fan heater) and a bit of judicious tapping up and down will release it.
There is a relieved section part way down the outer surface of the pump body and corrosion will have formed there in 60 years.
good luck
Ray Lee

Just remembered that if you remove the idler gear spindle you can tap the pump round a bit to ease it out.
I think an 8mm bolt is used to pull it out, mind you with my memory it could be 10mm.
Ray
Ray Lee

I've shown a picture of the situation as is. As can be seen the pump is on it's way out_ That was actually achieved in the normal way. Bolts out and gently (its cast so beware) tapping with a hammer whilst pulling. Having got that far and it refusing to budge further thought that by removing the clip on top of the drive shaft I could press the shaft into the block thus allowing the drive gear to come off. No jammed against the camshaft. So as this was going to be a total strip down got everything out icluding the camshaft and am left with a pump still in the same position. I've stopped for today and have not pressed the drive shaft again as I can't guarantee that it will clear the lip of the block piston barrel. I will try Steves' suggestion of pulling out the idler shaft but am becoming convinced that there is a key in the drive shaft and that is causing my problem. I'm also concerned that to much pressure on pressing out the drive shaft into the block may damage the groove for the retaining clip. If the key any suggestions??





JK Mazgaj

Hello JK. ! You shouldn't have removed the circlip. The puller is not suppose to be centered on the shaft. I had one pump come in where the person did that an broke the shaft away from the body. 2 the puller that should be used goes under the body of the pump and the screws go against the block. I suggest that you spray both sides of the shaft inside and out of the block with penetrating oil, then tap the body back into the block to carry the oil inside. There is enough play around the idler shaft to rock the body up and down a little bit tap it up and down while pulling the body outward. Remember to use a dead blow or rawhide mallet(some thing that won't mar the surface to knock it back and forth. The surface of the body and cover has to be free of dings and scratches and be flat to seal properly. You can see the difference in the attached image.

Butch


R Taras

I would tap the shaft back into the pump before going any further.
The only thing that can hold in the pump is corrosion so patience is the only way to go. Tap in ,tap out and twist it all about :-)
Ray
Ray Lee

Thanks all. It's out. Turned out that the two oilways into the drive shaft tube were virtually solid with carbon which had also formed in the recess in the middle of the shaft causing it to jam. Took ages to free off.
JK Mazgaj

Good news
Ray
Ray Lee

This thread was discussed between 03/02/2021 and 05/02/2021

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archives. Join the live MG TD TF 1500 BBS now