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MG TD TF 1500 - Removing TD rear brake drums

Advice please on removing the rear brake drums on a late TD. Should I buy new oil seals beforehand? Any tips on the pulling process are welcome as the workshop manual is not very explicit. Thank you.
J Houlgate

First turn the snails back fully, then use a three or four legged puller. Don't try a hammer!.

New oil seals are a low cost safety measure.

More important is re-fitting in the order shown in the WSM. Remember to remove any old, dry dirty grease.
Ian Bowers

Archives are full on this topic. Check there.
efh Haskell

My advice is to find the proper puller; I see many brake drums with bits broken out of the outer edge from using a jaw puller. The sort you want fits over the wheel studs and pulls closer to the center, where you want the pressure.

Be sure, when you tighten things up again, that you tighten the large axle nut to 150#; less and the drum can move on the axle, wearing both sets of splines.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

The puller is called a "hub puller". Mark
Mark Strang

I would be very surprised to need a puller for the rear drums. Just slacken the wheel nuts and give the wheels a rattle.
The fronts need a puller though.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

Totally agree with Ray,
REAR hubs or drums come off the easiest and the Oil seal is in the axel bearing cap so you should not need to fit new ones if they are not leaking. Remember the nuts are not handed (both sides are right hand thread so half shafts are interchangeable) unlike the front stub axels. Gentle tapping with a leather mallet should allow the hub to come free from the split cone.
This split cone has to be set right up against the bearing when you put things back together. It is what the Axel Oil Seal runs on and centers the hub. Check it is smooth and Double check it is all the way home as you refit the hub.
Rod


R. D. Jones

This is great for TDs and solid-wheel TFs, but not for wire wheel hubs.

Ray is on the right track, but unfortunately the brake shoes don't always fully release; in which case a rawhide or plastic hammer is called for.

If you find yourself obliged to use a hammer, make lots of light taps and of course, go evenly around the drum. Be patient - take your time!

Judicious use of a propane torch might help, but don't get things too hot, and of course tapping lightly as you go!

If its still stuck, only then, resort to a jaw puller.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gordon A Clark

May be tooo simple but anyway: handbrake off! and slacken the rear brakes. Prepare yourself for the pretty heavy torque for the rearnuts (in the re-assembling) and be willing to adjust the thickness of the splasher in order to reach both the torque and the position for the safety pin hole. Good luck and have fun, Huib
Huib Bruijstens

This thread was discussed on 14/07/2014

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