MG-Cars.info

Welcome to our Site for MG, Triumph and Austin-Healey Car Information.

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - replacing special seal in a Moss rear seal convers

hi, Is it possible to replace the big rear oil seal on the moss conversion without having to lift the crank out, or do I have to dismantle it all to replace it. Thanks
Paul
P Hicks

You don't have to remove the crank, but you have to disassemble to the point of almost having the crank out. Oil pan off, rear main cap off, etc. Unfortunately you can't just pull the seal out and push a new one in.
Steve Simmons

Oil pan, flywheel and rear main cap must be removed. Highly recommend a speedi sleeve on the crank flange. First determine whether the oil leak(s) originate from the crank bolts, main seal or oil pan to main cap.

Bill Chasser
TD-4834
W A Chasser

Hi Bill,
Yes I have a speedi sleeve and the seal shows no sign of a leak. I have the pan off and when I had the engine upside down I poured some light oil down the drain tube from the rear main. This oil soon started seeping out from behind the upper part of the Moss aluminium adaptor, which of course was facing down at this stage. I have removed this part of the adaptor ( had to lift the crank a bit but I cannot for the life of me see where the oil is getting out, so I am wondering if it is something to do with oil getting past the main bearing cap. Any ideas?
Ta
Paul
P Hicks

When I did mine, the speedisleeve had to sit proud from the flange so as to contact the seal lip properly.

Regards, Tom
tm peterson

Not an answer to your question, but the Moss seal is the only product I know of, that is sold without any guaranty that it will work.

However, the draining hole in the cap is too high, making the flange rotate in a pool of oil and acting as a centrifugal pump building up pressure inside the seal.

In an earlier thread I described how to drain this pool into the sump, which obviously has helped.

Another solution I have thought of, is to apply paint or silicon or something suitable to the surface in the cup to fill up what has been worn off by the screw before new bearings lifted the crank. Anyone who has tried? Or isnīt it worth trying?
YS Strom

This thread was discussed between 07/01/2020 and 13/01/2020

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archives. Join the live MG TD TF 1500 BBS now