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MG TD TF 1500 - Rivets for Gas Lid

Anyone know a source for the two brass rivets that hold the gas lid to the tank, and hold the trigger to the tank? Look to be nickel plated.

They are smaller than 1/8" diam. A 1/8" bit will not pass through the mounting holes in the tank.

My measurements:
> 0.108" = Diam (7/64")
> 0.741 = Length (3/4")
> 0.162" = Head Diam
> Head type = round dome

Thanks,

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

I think From the Frame Up has them? George
George Butz III

Thanks George,

FTFU rivets are 3/32" diam, which is 1/64" too small, but who's counting at that small size! Steel rivets. Part #RIV415 for TDs and TFs.

I found 3/32" rivets at Skycraft in Winter Park so I'll try them first. Aluminum and steel. Large head.

Posts that I found in a search of the archives didn't give any hope of finding the exact rivet. Some members turned the rivets.

Lonnie
TF7211

LM Cook

Lonnie,

From my experience the 'usual' MG retailers in the US don't supply the correct diameter rivet pins.

On both our TF 1250 and TF1500 I was fortunate enough to reuse the original pins for both the petrol cap and the release trigger. You certainly need to be careful when removing the pins for petrol tank restoration to preserve the precious brass ends.

Alternatively,it may pay to have new pins turned up on a lathe to original specs. Brass and then plated.

In the interests of not marking your petrol tank's new paint, a mandrel/dolly can be used to support the head of the pins when reattaching the cap and release trigger.This makes peening the end rivet tail easier. I usually protect the petrol tank paint surface by placing a soft leather cloth over the area to be worked on. Also,four(4) hands are better compared to two(2) hands in this exercise!

Of course you could use small plated bolts instead of the original rivets. But that would be cheating ......... ! (lol)

I recommend a new neoprene impregnated cork gasket. The original cork junk is not generally satisfactory.

Cheers
Rob Grantham
TF3719("Aramis"),TF9177("Athos").
Rob Grantham

I bought a selection of aluminum and stainless steel 3/32 solid rivets (not hollow end) today. I don't feel that I have the knowledge or ability to peen them in place. I tried pounding the end with a hammer and I attempted to split the end with a chisel to spread it. No luck. I doubt that I will have new ones turned by a machine shop from brass.

>> So, what are good alternatives that have worked for members on the BBS?

Rob - I doubt that I could have reused my rivets. I had read about saving the old rivets before I removed mine. They were bent from years of pressure from the cap and trigger. The peened ends were too small to move or grab.

Thanks,

Lonnie
TF7211

LM Cook

I was fortunate to re-use my original tube rivets. They were nickel plated.

To flare the end of the rivet I used a small C clamp. Cut the base plate that is on the screw. Using the bench grinder I shaped the end of the screw to a point so it can center into the tube rivet.

The upper part of the C clamp body I was on the bench grinder again to get it just small / thin enough to make good contact on the opposite side of the tube rivet on the head. There was some clearance issues so I wouldn't touch the paint. Trial and error and keep going gradually until it works........

You don't need much to flare. Another set of hands so the clamp wouldn't slip but it worked.

I wish I took a picture but I don't. The c-clamp I had was cast and due to the grinding of the top of the c clamp body caused it to break. Worked once and tossed....

Hopefully my description helped.

Frank
TF1414
Frank Cronin

I also have to reattach the cap and lever. I was not able to salvage the rivets as well and need a source for rivets.
W A Chasser

Lonnie,

If you do have to have the rivets manufactured, ensure the Machinist is aware that you need to have a small
amount of concavity at the tail end of the rivet. This is essential in that this move makes it much easier to 'flare' the tail of the rivet using an appropriate dolly pressed on the head together with a 'punch' to help spread the tail.

Cheers
Rob Grantham
Rob Grantham

If you have a picture of the original and the dimensions needed, I would be happy to turn some out on my lathe.

I made new door pins on it and also turned out a T nut to fasten the fuel tank side panel on.

These are small, but I have collets that will fit small brass rod.
Bruce Cunha

Bruce -

Thanks! That would be great if you can turn some rivets for the lid and trigger. You're right, they are pretty small. Don't drive yourself crazy if it's not an easy job.

I can plate them with zinc.

I have attached an "anal" PDF of dimensions and photos.

Looks like determining the length is the hardest part of the task. Better too long than too short.

I'll pay whatever you want for your time, materials, and mental anguish!

Let me know if you need anything else.

Lonnie
TF7211


LM Cook

This thread was discussed between 12/08/2020 and 15/08/2020

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