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MG TD TF 1500 - Rusted side member

HI everybody,

Discovered a bad issue on the frame.
Tne leftside sidemember is badly rusted at the rear cross tube level. See picture.
I damned those rear spring support brackets with the big holes. Water is welcome in it and is retained along the side wall of the sidemember. Till it rusted and till water can penetrate the sidemember and bite it. Probably a classic rust spot.
I looked at rubber grommet(43 mm), but I've never found them.

By now the current problem is to cure the sidmember. After I'll see for the grommet.
The best way would be to remove this bracket and weld an L shape sheet of steel along the bottom and side wall of the sidemember. Then refixing the support bracket on the new metal sheet. But it could be dificult to weld it accurately.
The rear axle geometry depends on this location.

What do you think of it.

Laurent.


LC Laurent31

Laurent-
The bad spot appears to be at the rear horizontal bracket for the tub frame. This bracket also supports the front of the rear leaf spring if I'm not mistaken. You're right the rusted metal must be removed back to solid sheet steel. It's hard to visualize how far forward and back the rusted section extends; also whether or not the vertical wall is affected. You'll only know these answers when you start to cut out the bad sections. Also one would suspect the other side of the frame may be rusted as well.

All in all it should not be too difficult to cut out the diseased sections and weld in new sheet metal.

Occasionally you do see TD frames for sale but I imagine in France they are not too common.

I believe the repair is the easiest route.

Good luck,
Roy



Roy Challberg

If the bottom of the rail is relatively sound:

I would be tackling this by first clamping a angle iron stiffener under the rail each side of the rusted section, this should allow you to maintain the geometry.

I would not remove the bracket, the top of the rail appears sound.

Dont use a oxy to cut out the rusted section, use a 4 inch angle grinder fitted with a cut off wheel this will negate distortion introduced by heat.

Once the rusted section is removed treat the surface rust on the internal of the rail, plenty of product available to do this task.

Cut a new metal section to overlap the rusted area and tack weld into position. Complete the welding process using MIG which has reduced heat generation compared to arc or using oxy. Allow to completely cool prior to removing the stiffener.

Difficulty will be welding the bottom of the new section.
G Evans

Obviously a major repair is required and the advice already given on suitable bracing is spot on. However as is par for the course I wish to develop this thread further. If a new chassis could be found what happens to the car's identy? UK readers will be familiar with the current fiasco regarding new chassis numbers being issued by a club for very prestigious and expensive French cars. In the UK Historic Vehicles are exempt from road tax. If a car's documentation has been lost it can be dated by a recognised owners' club in order to obtain historic status. Apparently the club at the centre of the controversy has not been dating remanufactured chassis properly. The European Union have now become involved since there is a tax/revenue implication. The UK government has written to all involved car owners asking them for proof of their car's age. This relates to all major components including the body. There was a rumour this would be applied to all historic cars. This would have raised an issue for T Series cars with new wooden body frames. Fortunately the investigation is now being restricted to the original questionable ones. It is a pitty a very well respected owners' club has caused a potential problem and anxiety for owners of other makes of car.

Jan T
J Targosz

Choosing the car's chassis as its identity is a convenience that is all. The chassis on my car is very corrosion free, but if it had not been I might have been very tempted to find a good one and swop the front chassis leg over. It wouldn't have changed the nature of the car or its identity in my opinion.
Dave H
Dave Hill

About 15 years back, I did a frame repair for a friend. We had similar cancer spots. To repair sections were cut off old and then newer solid sections were welded on. We also reinforced all joints with four internal plates at each joint that were plug welded in multiple spots. And finally added long strip of 3/16 inch plate steel over the same areas you have holes here are a couple of photos.
RERosa

photo #1

RERosa

PHOTO #2

RERosa

If you car was being driven and showed no handling problems then I think it is an easy repair.
My car rusted through further forward than that and the handling was evil (roll oversteer).It had also rusted up the sidewalls.
If there is no flex in your chassis a bottom repair will probably fix it.
If you block the holes in the brackets then water will stay in and rot more of the chassis.I put a few squirts off oil into the chassis every now and again.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

Thank you all.
Good ideas.
No flex in the chassis, Driving the car is an easy pleasure. and I've been driving 3 thousand miles.
My conclusion is that I should not remove the bracket.

Internal plates and bottom sheet welded can do the job.
Squirt of oil in the bracket is also a good way for protection.


Laurent.
LC Laurent31

This thread was discussed between 21/12/2015 and 22/12/2015

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