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MG TD TF 1500 - Seized Shock Bolt

I'm in the process of removing the shocks from my TD to have them rebuilt at Worldwide Auto Parts, courtesy of Peter Caldwell. However, I have run into a problem.

The top trunnion bolt that connects to the shock arm, is well and truly stuck. It spins in the trunnion, but refuses to pull out. I suspect it may have seized in the steel spacer, which prevents it from being pulled through the shock arm..

Does anyone have any tips, short of a stick of dynamite, for getting it to budge?

I have tried penetrating oil, freezing with a CRC product, and plain old brute force, all to no effect.

Help!
Lew Palmer
Lew3

Sounds like it needs some serious vertical force to pull it up and remove it and break the bond with the steel spacer. I'm wondering if you could weld the bolt top to something and then use a simple jig to screw it out. Say, a short piece of steel with three holes in it, two threaded so you can put long bolts on it and force it to raise upwards as you thread them through, and the center hole holding a bolt that you weld to the trunnion bolt head? I'm not sure if my explanation will make sense, but I made my own clutch puller for my motorbike using the same jig approach. Once successfully removed, you would then just cut the trunnion bolt away and clean the head of the weld marks and be good to go...
Geoffrey M Baker

Lew,

The bolt has corroded itself to the interior of the steel tubular distance piece. I would use a MAP gas torch (propane is not hot enough) and heat the head of the bolt till red, then drive the bolt from the threaded end out. I've used this method many times.
A Peddicord


Lew, Depending upon how badly the bolt has corroded, you may want to try my method before resorting to heat. Yes, a lot of penetrating oil.
Use a deep 7/8" socket on a 1/2" breaker bar to fit over the head of the bolt and shoulder against the shock arm. This serves as a dead blow back up weight to support and concentrate the force on the bolt itself rater than being absorbed by the trunnion.
While holding the breaker bar/socket in place give the bolt a good blow with a large hammer to brake it loose. If it moves, you can normally, use a big pin punch or smaller bolt to drive the trunnion bolt the rest of the way out. Since all of this is a little difficult for one person to do , it helps to have an assistant. Be careful with suspension parts under a spring load.
Richard Cameron

Heat is not something I'm willing to try, either with a torch or welding with MIG. there are too many rubber parts and grease that I would be afraid of fire.
A mechanical solution is probably the way to go. I'm about to consider cutting the head and tail section off the bolt so the shock arm can be lifted out of the way.
But I'm still looking for a few more ideas.
Lew3

If you can access the bolt head with a "Rattle Gun" the percussion during bolt rotation will often disenegrate the offending corrosion. Use both tightening and loosening directions of rotation.
G Evans

take the shock off and trunnion together if it helps to work on them. Split the damper arms by undoing the middle bolt and nut, and remove one arm from the damper. Then if you still cannot get the bolt out of the trunnion drill out rubber bushings to release.
mog

G Evans,

I've been trying to remove the bolt with an impact wrench, but the steel sleeve is rotating in the trunnion bushing, but is seized in the steel sleeve, so all that happens is the bolt and sleeve rotate.

mog, removing a shock arm would require a puller which there is not the room nor purchase to use one.
Lew3

put a long socket over the head of the bolt then get the biggest,meanest "G" clamp you can, tighten it up as hard as you can on the nut end. Support the head side with a lump hammer and shock with a smaller hammer.
A bit brutal but it works.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee raybar2(at) tiscalidotcodotuk

Lew

Using an impact wrench is not going to have the same effect that a rattle gun will have, what I would be aiming for is continuous rotation of the bolt with the jarring action that the gun provides.

Graeme
G Evans

Remove the shock and spindle assembly. With proper backing (slightly larger socket or short piece of steel pipe over the bolt head). Then tap/hammer the bolt out. Or take the assembly to someone or a shop with a press. George
George Butz

I shouldn't post before first cup of coffee (see above). Another idea- You will need an assistant, a heavy weight such as a sledge hammer head, and a socket or very short piece of pipe that will slip over the bolt head. Hold the above tightly against the shock arm, then tap/hammer the bolt out. You will destroy the bolt of course, but it is probably toast anyway. Use safety goggles and gloves and be careful! George
George Butz

The bolt is out! I finally removed the bolt holding the shock arms together. This allowed me to open up the space between the arm and the trunnion. I then used a metal cut-off wheel and cut through the bolt at either end. The steel spacer tube had somehow welded itself to the thrust washer on one end of the assembly, thus preventing removal. You wouldn't think it would be that hard to separate them, but it was.

Of course, I still have yet to remove the two inner shock mounting bolts.

Thanks to all for the ideas.
Lew3

Great. I have used a socket u-joint extension to get to the inner bolts. George
George Butz

This thread was discussed between 19/03/2016 and 21/03/2016

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