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MG TD TF 1500 - Should I clean the inside of my TF gearbox?

> Should I remove the top cover of my gearbox and spray the interior clean with kerosene? The gearbox is out of the car. I am not planning to rebuilt or disassemble it. I have no experience with gearboxes; just following the WSM and Barrie Jones.

I am removing the rear case because the mounting "ear" is broken and replacing it with one that is intact. My plan was to remove only the rear case and not open the top of the gearbox.

I removed the remote control. Everything looks pretty good inside and the gears spin smoothly. However, the selector shafts and other parts are covered with a fine gray sludge. Probably metal dust and gear oil. I'll clean the selectors then attach the new rear case, new bearing, and new oil seal.

I assume that the same gray sludge is in the main gearbox too. I haven't opened the top of the case yet. I can easily spray it clean with my $9.00 Harbor Freight engine cleaner and kerosene. But I don't know if the sludge has sealed potential leaks. If everything is cleaned will it start leaking? Also don't know if I could damage the seal at the front of the gearbox / bellhousing. My gearbox probably leaked less than most before I started the project.

Harbor Freight engine cleaner:
http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-cleaning-gun-68290.html

The gears are in neutral. I know to not move the selectors. And I will retrieve the springs and balls when I open the case.

I'll refill with Redline MT-90 (GL4) after I reinstall the gearbox into the car. Same as I used before I removed it.

Clean it? / Don't clean it? / Suggestions or comments?

Thanks,

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

If it ain't broke ...

On a related note I once had some work done on a manual transmission. Previously a shaft had to be replaced by another shop. The second shop, years later opened the case and cleaned it all out and found remnants of shop rag in the case and oil.
Christopher Couper

Lonnie,

I have owned my TF for 61 years and have done exactly what you are suggesting ~ about every 10 years.

It also gives me a chance to look inside and evaluate wear. I'm inclined to believe that spraying kerosene or any professional equivalent, will effectively "pressure wash" any metal bits that will certainly, accumulate over the years.

As well, I have been running MT90 for several years now - HIGHLY recommended.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gord Clark

Gord and Chris -

Well I knew that I would always be apprenhesive about the gearbox if I didn't remove the top and look inside. So I did and wha-du-ya-know ... it was pretty clean inside. The inside of the case had good clean paint. Some gray slurry on the sides of the case but very thin and a lot of clean paint also showing through. The selector shafts had a very thin coating of slurry. And best of all the gears and gear shafts looked bright, clean, and no missing teeth. The gearbox had less slurry than the rear case.

I used the Harbor Freight engine cleaner to pressure wash kerosene onto the gears, shafts, sides, and bottom of the case. I didn't wash the two ends of the case with bearings or seals. The spent kerosene flowed out of the drain. Wasn't too dirty. Everything looks good.

I used the engine cleaner previously on the outside of the engines in my '54 pickup and my TF before painting them. It doesn't require much solvent or rinse to do the job. I probably used less than a cup of kerosene cleaning my gearbox. $9.00 well spent.

Thanks for your input.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Well. And the most important part of all of this is that you will sleep better at night knowing what you know and that you took action.

So while you may or may not have done anything physically positive, your brain will definitely benefit :-)
Christopher Couper

Kerosine should not be used to clean bearings it is an abrasive, 5-10W oil would be the preferred solvent.
G Evans

I have heard about kerosene being abrasive, but I can't find any documentation. I didn't spray directly on the front/rear of the gearbox case but I'm sure that kerosene did drip onto the bearings, bushes, and contact surfaces. I'll squirt some Redline gear oil over most surfaces before I bolt on the top.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Although not directly MG related, some good info contained in this link;

http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/archive/index.php/t-64867.html
G Evans

This thread was discussed between 06/02/2015 and 08/02/2015

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