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MG TD TF 1500 - Slowly Coming Together
Making progress! After straightening the rear quarters, I've been temporarily putting everything back together to check the bolt holes for alignment and all is coming along fine! Checking the windscreen brackets for fit before re chroming just in case an adjustment had to be made after replacing the scuttle where it should have been in the first place came out perfect! The new wood from Moss is a much better fit than the old piece and will eliminate fudging everything. The right rear quarter had a lot of Bondo on it. I removed all the Bondo, straightened the panel and used lead to fill any slight deformities. Took me back a few years remembering how to do it, but it came back! Now waiting for my firewall, fenders and some other small bits to come back from the media blasters to get this back on the chassis for the fit of the doors. Progress is nice. Couple of pictures here. PJ
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Paul S Jennings |
# 2
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Paul S Jennings |
Leaded area,
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Paul S Jennings |
Looks awesome Paul. |
Rich (TD 3983) Taylor |
Looks like you know your body work, Paul. Don't inhale too much of that lead though! Must feel great to be making progress! |
Geoffrey M Baker |
I think I've read here it's best to get those doors fitted perfectly to the tub while it's OFF the car, not when it's back on the chassis! (Wish I would have done it that way anyway!) Ed |
efh Haskell |
Paul. It all looks great but I have one bit of caution. You are about to fit the doors and that really needs to take place with the tub on your chassis. You will need to shim the tub along with other adjustments. Even though your rack is really neat, for the door fitting move the tub to the chassis. One you have all the doors fitting correctly and have noted which shims should be used in each place, you can put the body back on your rack for other work. |
Chris Couper |
Chris, because the tub on the stand is too flexible to fit the doors, (temporary bracing on each side of the inter tub can be seen because of this), the next move after I get my firewall back and installed, I'm putting it back on the chassis, do what ever shimming that needs to be done and bolt it down tight prior to fitting the doors. After the doors are in position I can remove or ad shims for a more even spacing around the doors if needed. Mark all the shims for their appropriate positions and put the tub back on the roll around stand where it will eventually be painted. PJ |
Paul S Jennings |
I forgot to ad that while on the chassis, I will also temporarily fit the bonnet and side panels. PJ |
Paul S Jennings |
Just a note. Redoing the doors, I found the drivers door in near perfect condition, just one small ding, but the passenger door is another story with 5 very small dents. Because of the wood behind most of the dented areas, leading is out, too much heat! These areas will be repaired with Evercoat Quantum. Pro body shops use it instead of Bondo to meet manufactures specifications under painted surfaces. PJ![]() |
Paul S Jennings |
Suggest you have tub mounted on frame and car is resting on wheels before attempting to install doors. My door installation went fairly easy using the procedure. This is also recommended in one of the restoration manuals, don't remember which one. |
R W Hinton |
Suggest you have tub mounted on frame and car is resting on wheels before attempting to install doors. My door installation went fairly easy using the procedure. This is also recommended in one of the restoration manuals, don't remember which one. === That's exactly how I plan on doing it. Little more work to do before I put it back on the chassis and fit the doors. PJ |
Paul S Jennings |
This thread was discussed between 25/04/2014 and 07/05/2014
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