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MG TD TF 1500 - Solid Wire Choke Cable

The TF's choke cable is brand new, both inner and outer. It is one of the flexible types as you find on bicycles. Despite ages tinkering with it I cannot get it to shut off fully. Has anyone tried using a solid inner cable that can operate in both directions?

Jan T
J Targosz

Jan, if the cable is bending when you push the handle in you might solder the wire where it attaches to the choke mechanism.

Tim
Timothy Burchfield

Jan;
My TD cable (original?, I think so) has a solid inner wire. Due to the tightness of the seals on the jets I need to PUSH HARD to return the enrichment to normal.
The cable recently pulled out of the serrated shaft. I had repaired it in the past. I purchased a new cable from AS which was reported to be "As Original". It was flexible.
I decided not to use it and again repaired my "Original?" solid cable.

I like the solid one.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

I have a solid wire. Works just fine, pulling or pushing.
Joe

Joe Olson

When installing a new cable on the TF (flexible) I tinned the last 6 inches with solder and it still works fine, but since having the carbs rebuilt, the jets return without any forcing. Lucky I guess. PJ
PJ Jennings

I had a solid cable and recently changed it over to a stranded one working with my Joe Curto rebuilt carbs and find it works much easier. No problem with pushing the choke fully off. So different cars, different results.
John Quilter (TD8986)

The stranded cables were original. If you have to push the choke back in you have other issues that need to be dealt with such as springs or friction.
Christopher Couper

I am pretty certain the problem is caused by the flexible cable looping as it comes out of its sheath. If I disconnect the cable from the carbs the jet leavers snap shut but with everything connected up I can still push them up slightly by hand. The carbs and cable are brand new but the clamp for the outer cable may be out of alignment. I am going to check this tomorrow and also solder a section of the inner cable to prevent looping. As an aside I have just bought some Bakers Fluid soldering flux. It was £15 for a small bottle!

Jan
J Targosz

I would suggest a very through cleaning after the flux. Also perhaps a dip in baking soda solution.
Use a big iron to tin the cable.

Jim B
JA Benjamin

Jan

You might try loosening either the jet securing nut just a bit. If it is too tight, it will cause the cork washer to bind on the jet and prevent the cable from returning the jet to the top most position.

After a rebuild on my TD, I experienced the binding with my stranded cable. Loosening that nut just a touch worked the trick.
Charles Duffy

Cable routing is certainly an issue. You have to make sure your don't have any sharp bends. Test the cable itself before you hook it up to the carbs. It should move freely with no resistance.

Make sure there is nothing at the handle end like solder that is binding. You could try some silicone or teflon spray on the cable but it should not need it. Most likely you need to find the best routing that does not cause extra friction.

If the carbs snap back with no cable and the cable moves freely I am not sure what it could be. Charles may be right about just the critical amount of tightness on the jet securing nut. You could also try some for of lubricant there but I am not sure what it would be.
Christopher Couper

This thread was discussed between 08/08/2018 and 10/08/2018

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