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MG TD TF 1500 - Steering Rack

I am trying to unscrew Ball Housing Male from ball housing female on the end of the steering rack. Operation requires special tool which I do not have. Several attempts to use vise and pipe wrench failed. Any recommendation for course of action?

Boris
B Gruzman

I tried too with a pipe wrench and various other tools to try to get this off as well to no avail. Ended up making up a tool from scratch that did work. The threads here are fine thread. Afterwards did I learn that Abingdon Spares has a spanner for the job -- I believe I read here in the archives. I am not sure if they still have this tool available.

Frank



Frank Cronin

in action

Frank Cronin

The WSM says to use Special Spanner T-114
Which has the number changed to 18G311.

I, personally would make one out of 1/8 or 3/16 flat stock and two pins. I have done a similar one using a hacksaw, file and drill press.

What might work is a hooked spanner. I don't know the size put there are some on ebay just now.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/hook-spanner

McMaster-Carr has some but they are. $$$$
JA Benjamin

I have tried using a hook spanner but had no luck. i assumed that in order to unscrew Ball Housing i must rotate home made tool "with two pins" counter clockwise, i.e. thread normal not reverse, am i correct?

Boris
B Gruzman

Hi Boris,

Sympathies with your problem, luckily it's not a job that has to be done again for many years, once the ball joint has been set up correctly.

Frank clearly has the skill, that few of us possess to make a very good tool. I've always succeeded with a Stilson pipe wrench that grips better if one or two small pieces of 1/8"(approx)rod are laid into the shallow grooves, with the narrow part of the joint held in the vice. What is really needed is a good crack on the wrench with a heavy lump hammer to break the seal. It is always a good idea to previously heat up the joint, then quickly cool it, once or twice before using the Stilson procedure. See the Archives for further info, and yes it's a normal but fine RH thread, so to undo you turn anti-clockwise(counter clockwise).

Persevere Boris, it will give way if you're patient. Don't worry about the marks on the ball joint etc -once assembled never seen!

Good luck,let us know how you've got on.

Cheers,

John
J C Mitchell

Oh, boy...it was something! After about 3 hours of the struggle I decide to mil two parallel line to remove two semi circle on male part and that give me enough grip to hold it in the vise. Then I used hook spanner and it did the trick...wow!


Boris
B Gruzman

Frank, nice looking tool? How were the square "pins" attached to the circular cut out? Or is the whole tool one piece?
Cheers, Hugh Pite
H.D. Pite

I did not want to comment, for fear of comments, but... This is exactly how I did this job on the TD several years ago. I filed flats in the socket and clamped it in the vise.
-David
D. Sander

Hi Boris,

Well done - I knew you'd do it! Does the other side need doing as well? Hope not, but don't forget the heat!

Bet you feel a whole lot better now, as I do having now removed the TF gearbox from within the cockpit, for the first time in around 40 years!

Cheers,

John
J C Mitchell

Couple of pics of the tool we made to hold the outer housing. Fabricated from a simple black pipe coupler bored to the correct size and fitted with 3 hard set screws. Milled a couple of flats to hold it in a vice or turn it with a big adjustable wrench. Has survived several rack rebuilds. Dan

Dan Craig

Hi Dan,

Nice simple tool - congratulations, but how have you managed to hold the 'inner narrow' part? I've never managed to make up strong enough pins, as per the factory tool, to do the job and have relied on the vice.

Cheers,

John
J C Mitchell

Hi Dan,

Very nice idea for tool, but I have same question as John: - how do you hold or unscrew male part? My home made spanner with two pins was not good enough. Pins always bend.

Boris
B Gruzman

And that is the tough part of this little job. I'm afraid no 100% sure tool from me at this point. The best I've done so far is to increase the thickness of the tool bar to better support the pins and bore the hole between the pins for a tight fit on the shoulder beneath the threaded stud. Using a nut on the stud to secure the male portion to the tool bar helps a bunch. Still bust roll pins and have to use heat on some regardless. Normally clamp this tool bar in a vice and turn the other part. Bar shows the effects of my abuse. Dan

Dan Craig

Forgot to mention spending some time on the female ball end by removing burrs and smoothing sharp edges can probably help lengthen the gaiters life. Though they will probably rot away before abrasion kills em. Dan
Dan Craig

This sounds like the kind of situation where someone with a suitable robust tool could lend/rent it out to those who might need it. It is difficult to make or invest in something like this since you will likely use very infrequently. I believe the Jaguar Club of North America has such a special tool lending program working.
John Quilter (TD8986)

This thread was discussed between 08/01/2014 and 14/01/2014

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