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MG TD TF 1500 - SU carb. best cork seal glands supplier.

Hi All,

I am currently completing the rebuild of the TF1500s SU H4
carbs.

I know that the main leak point can be at the two(2) gland washers (with brass 'cupped' washers) surrounding the jet. Of course, all gaskets, jets and needles etc. will be renewed.

I have noticed in some SU kits the brass washer for the gland can be of two (2) types. One type has a concave curve and a convex curve with slightly a larger diameter hole compared to the alternative brass type which is flat on one side and the usual concave curve on the other.

Has anyone had experience with the different brass gland washers ? Also,
it seems the quality of the gland seal itself can vary. (I am well aware that one needs to soak these cork seals in oil well before fit up). Can someone suggest the best gland seals supplier?

Cheers
Rob Grantham
Rob Grantham

Bin the cork washers, etc., and use the Superdry jet bearing seal kit from Burlen instead. Completely leak tight and stays that way.
Dave H
Dave Hill

There are those who have had success using teflon o-rings on the jets instead of the cork. I believe they use 4 rings on each jet. 2 in place of each cork seal. Someone who has done this will chime in I'm sure.

Brian W.
ZBMan

I just went back to cork replacing the super dry kit as it was impossible to operate the choke. I do have a single carb with the super charger and the angle of the choke cable isn't ideal but non the less with a multi day drive ahead and the need to choke for some starts I changed it out. I don't have the answers to your questions however.
L E D LaVerne

I am keen to see what people say too. I bought some 1"OD .8"ID (100 thou section) "O" rings to use in place of the cork. I figure they should work well but have not tried them yet. Was going to ask via a thread but am sure this thread will answer my questions. I have always used original (oil-soaked) cork but had one give trouble recently.


The small seals on the jet are another issue. Original graphite impregnated cork works OK, but sometimes they seep a bit. I think ordinary O-rings would grip the jet too well (and make the choke hard to use) so I am guessing Teflon might solve the problem?

Keen to see what people say.

Bob
R L Schapel

On TD 0581, I have had much better success with cork than with modern o-rings. From various threads which have addressed the cork v. o-ring debate, it seems that the older H2 carbs do better with cork; H4s do better with o-rings. Your mileage may vary.
Charles Duffy

I have found that soaking the cork 0-rings in oil for a few days makews everything better - they last longer, and allow the jet to move more smoothly.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

I used cork for years without issues, but these days they seem always to seep fuel - whether its the quality of the cork or the fuel I don't know. I had no success at all with PTFE or Viton O rings, but the Burlen Superdry kit is perfect. I would be interested to know why LaVerne had problems with it - the choke works well on mine.
The Superdry seals alone won't work, you need the complete kit for each carb.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Everyone has a favorite method of rebuilding SU carbs and they all work.

I replaced cork glands and sealing washer with O-rings in the H4 carbs on my TF-1500. I am happy with the results. Info is in this file on my Google Drive. Click the link. When the image appears, click the downward pointing arrow with a bar across the tip to download the file ... usually near the upper right corner of the screen.
http://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxisXBEpc-IWeXFOQzZZQnNScFk/view?usp=sharing

Regarding the shape of the brass washers for the glands, mine are flat on one side and concave on the other. They were in an SU Master Carburetor Rebuild Kit from Moss. Part #375-518.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Hi All,

Thanks to everyone for their input to the SU seal gland information.

I fitted new cork seal gland seals to both H4s last week. On testing,
a small leak eventuated on the front carb. ! Of course, any leak on T type carbs is not desirable or acceptable.

I then again dismantled the front carb. jet mechanism. Soaked another new pair of glands in oil for one(1) week. Also,changed the brass 'cupped' washers to the ones with one side flat,the other side concave curved. Thoroughly re cleaned, inside and out, the brass upper and lower jet bearings. Used a very, very fine abrasive (polishing) paper to eradicate any small burr on both the end of the new jet stem and the cross hole in that stem. The new glands were from Brown and Gammons (UK).

Reset the new needle centrally to achieve the characteristic clunk sound fall
on the carb.bridge. Set the carb. back on the chassis, turned on the make shift ignition switch, and hoped. Success ! Not a drop or vapour of fuel anywhere.

A friend and MG enthusiast here in WA advised on the work as I proceeded
and persisted with this work. He is an expert on SU MG carbs. and his input and knowledge was thoroughly appreciated.

Cheers
Rob Grantham
TF3719("Aramis"),TF9177("Athos").
Rob Grantham

Excellent that you found a fix. Taking utmost care in assembly always helps. B&G are my main go to supplier as they are only 30mins away by road, though I usually buy SU parts directly from Burlen (by mail).
Dave H
Dave Hill

Dave,

I did nearly reach for the Super Dry kit you had mentioned and had success with, however gave the original system a final try. Luckily for me, it worked
this time. 'Surgical' format seems to be the key.

Cheers
Rob Grantham
Rob Grantham

I put in cork seals over 6 years ago and no problems. I at first had an immediate leak rear carb, removed reinstalled and no issues. My recollection is it was upside down. But my recollecting is flawed lately.
It seemed odd to use cork and that a synthetic material would be better. Not the case here. It was a Moss Motors kit.
Peter Dahlquist

This thread was discussed between 07/08/2018 and 18/08/2018

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