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MG TD TF 1500 - Sump gasket replacment
Hello all, I need some help, the sump gasket on my 1955 MG TF 1500 leaks pretty bad and I need to change it, but I want to do it with the engine in the car and I don't really want to have to remove the bonnet and radiator etc, have you done this if so can you give me some advice please Thank you george |
G Mills |
George, Fortunately,I have not had the 'pleasure' of replacing a sump gasket with the motor in situ.Always rebuilt the whole motors at the bench position. Anything is possible with these cars,however you may not be satisfied with the result whilst battling with this gasket from the under car position. I do recommend Toyota sump Gasket Sealant in this area of your car's motor.Nine years later, since the rebuild of the motor, the current TF1250,has nil oil leaks from either the rear(Factory set up) or the front seal(modern fla seal,not the original asbestos type 'rope'). Cheers Rob Grantham |
R GRANTHAM |
No worries! The sump gasket can be replaced easily with the engine in the car. See the recient threads about this, and the modern double lip Volvo camshaft front seal, the "Hal Kramer" seal. -David |
D. Sander |
George, I just had the experience of doing that exact thing in association with replacing the front seal. I did it while lying on a concrete floor with the car up on jackstands in a cold garage. An issue that adds to the degree of difficulty is the proper assembly of the rear sump seal. It is important for the sump gasket to be under the stepped ends of the cork rear cap seal. This prevents you from cementing the sump gasket to the top of the sump. Also, since you have the front lip seal in place, you will need to trim the forward end of the sump gasket to fit against the lip-seal. Oil will want to drip down upon the edge of the sump (and on your face) while you are trying to coat it with your favorite cement. The job is made easier if you remove the exhaust pipe and the clutch link. Installation is much easier if you use a couple of long 8mmx1mm studs, screwed into the block from below to act as guides for the sump. I found that the use of a bottle jack under the sump was a big help to lift the sump into position. As David suggested, have a look at the recent thread about this. Feel free to ask more questions. I'd be happy to help. Bud |
Bud Krueger |
Thanks to all for helping me out here, may I ask what type of crankshaft seal would be in my car now, I am sure it would be original, what is involved in replacing the original front seal with a modern type fla seal, does the timing cover have to come off to do this, like I said I do not want to take the radiator out or the bonnet off, I see there are lots of places selling the sump gasket set at all different prices, can you recommend the best make of gasket. Rob, I know of you your name appears all over some of the paper work I got with my car one entry says Rob Grantham MG GURU, in fact Rob you inspected my car for one of the previous owners. Anyway luckily I have a Son who is a mechanic and a Grandson as well they can do most of the hard work, but it is important I find out just how it is done and the little tricks you all have when doing this. Once again thank you all Regards george ![]() |
G Mills |
George, I'm sorry about getting the false impression that you already had a modern lip seal at the front. You most likely still have the original rope seal. Any front seal replacement would require the removal of the timing cover and crank pulley. Just removing the sump and replacing the gasket is not that difficult a task. You might want to search the archives for more information about installing a modern seal. Bud |
Bud Krueger |
Hi George, I don't know about MG Guru,however I do have a passion for MG TFs and TDs. On this Forum,you will 'meet'owners with both high degrees of originality knowledge and technical expertise.No one person has all the answers. I do remember having a look at your car when it was located in Perth.It drove quite well. If you go about attending to points of repair and originalty on one area of the car at a time,you will be also be able to enjoy the driving by having the car on the road for long periods. Some owners of this Forum still have their cars which they bought from new!! eg Gordon C from Canada.He also does about 5000 miles per year in his TF Cheers Rob Grantham TF3719("Aramis"),TF9177("Athos"). |
R GRANTHAM |
No worries Bud, today I thought bugger it I will remove the radiator and the grille so I can do it correctly which I have gathered from the advice here, Thanks for that. Anyway I started looking at it and noticed the bonnet hinge (chrome strip) was not fully into the section that is on the Grille meaning the bonnet is not secure with the bonnet closed you can lift the front of the bonnet up, seems as though the grille is set too far back, my god what have I got myself into, I have undone some bolts holding the radiator / grille assembly and it wont move it looks like there are bolts or screws inside between the radiator and the grille and I have no idea how to get them out, I think I am going to need some help . |
G Mills |
George, It is easier if you take out the whole radiator/chrome shell as a unit.Don't forget to release the two(2) nuts holding the two(2) radiator base saddle bracket studs to the chassis cross member.They are released from underneath the TF.Of course,you will also need to release the stays going to the radiator sides,top and bottom hoses etc. There are be some setscrews that one can get at under the front wing area you will also need to release.Not too bad an exercise IF the front has not been subject to accident damage! Cheers Rob Grantham |
R GRANTHAM |
Thanks Rob |
G Mills |
This thread was discussed between 12/03/2014 and 13/03/2014
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