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MG TD TF 1500 - Sway bar

I've been looking through the archives and there is TONS of information about adding MGB swaybars to an MGTD. It sounds - please correct me if I'm wrong - that it can be done without any major modifications like drilling - that I simply need the sway bar, two front arms and various other bits and pieces from an MGB, and it's doable.
Has anybody got a good Dave-Braun style "here's how I did it" page out there they can point me to? (I believe Dave Brauns actual page on swaybars had a number of modifications which aren't absolutely necessary).
There are two sizes of swaybar, I believe, 9/16 and 5/8". Which is preferable?
Thanks!
Geoffrey M Baker

I'm no expert but these are my fall project. According to LaVerne you need to drill holes in the pans that support the coil springs. I'm sure he will drop in here shortly. He also has a list of Moss parts needed I can send if you need it.
Ed
efh Haskell

Ed, I thought I read somewhere (again someone tell me if I'm wrong) that if you replace the pans with pans from an MGB, they will fit without modification?
Looks like my fall project too - it's too hot outside to do anything till the rains come... but I can start planning now!
Geoffrey M Baker

Good idea to utilize the MGB spring pans since they're reinforced for the hole needed for the bolt. Drilling a hole in the TD can compromise its integrity, unless someone reinforces the hole with a bit of welding.

I see Dave used an existing bolt to fix a custom bracket for the link; that would not weaken the pan like adding a large hole would.

If you study numerous installations, try to go with full length links rather than the short stubby ones.

Speak of the devil, my wife asked my what I'm doing, so I mentioned I was on the BBS commenting on a sway bar installation. "Well when are you going to put mine on like you promised?!?!" Open mouth, insert foot. That just jumped to the top of the honey-do list!
JRN JIM

I suspect that Lazarus is going to join the crowd. Anybody know of a good source for MGB parts? Bud
Bud Krueger

I will attach three pictures (separately) of the parts I used to install a 5/8" front sway bar salvaged from an MGB being parted out. The front A arm is beefed up with the triangular doubler, the spring pan is slightly different than that of the TD as well. The rear A arm on the spring pan is the same as the TD original. I did buy new bushings for the sway bar clamps but used all the other parts as removed (after cleaning and painting). The sway bar clamps are mounted directly on the lower flange of the front dumb iron. I kept watching for any sign of the flange bending in anticipation of needing a doubler on each side but that was never necessary.

Picture #1 is attached. 2 and 3 will follow.

Jim Merz

Photo #2 The strengthened A bar.

Jim Merz

Photo #3 All the parts.

Jim Merz

IMHO, They should have been built with sway bars. The TD/TF are just to "tippy" without them, which makes for some tricky handling.
David
D. Sander

Bud,
I went to Craig's list and found the pans, a-arms, sway bar, and links for $75 from a '78 MGB. This is a lot easier than trying to modify the original pans and a-arms. I bought new links because the rubber bushings were rotted. I only had to drill four holes in the dumbirons to hold the bushings for the sway bar itself. I modified the old links(shortened them) to try to copy Jim's design with no luck so I just used them long as they came from Moss and have had no problems with interference on any suspension parts. The job gave me a good chance to reuild the front suspension bushings, pins, and seals,etc. It's an easy job.
Mark
Mark Strang

Geoffrey, you are correct. I remember that now.
Ed
efh Haskell

My wife was on my back to install the sway bar again, "that big stainless roll bar that goes in the back!"
I'm afraid there's now 2 projects at the top of the honey-do list.
JRN JIM

MGB parts right off the shelf or from your favorite salvage vendor will work. Usually you will want to install a new link and bushings if you go with used material as the original rubber bushings are usually perished. 9/16 or 5/8" will work fine. 3/4 will make the ride pretty darn harsh.

I installed the set up on my TF without issue. That said I have heard of some installers that had clearance issues with the tie rods using the full length links and had to cut them down.
MG LaVerne

I chose to go with Jim Mertz's method. It looked like a clean, solid, and simple setup to me. I was unsure how to know exactly where to drill to mount the brackets on the dumb irons since my car is in a disassembled state. I ended up loading the front end with what I believed would be the finished weight on the front tires. I put everything together, held the sway bar up to the dumb irons with the brackets in place and center punched the four holes in the brackets for drilling. Unfortunately, it didn't occur to me to verify that the brackets might not be set at the same distance from the end of the dumb irons because I had gone to some pains to get the weight on the front end correct. The result was that my left and right brackets are spaced about 1/2" differently from the end of the dumb irons. I still intend to weld up the holes on one side and redrill the bracket holes so that the left and right side are spaced the same.

The picture below shows my shortened link and beefed up original MGTD A arms. I didn't weld across the A arm because photos of the MGB A arms show that they were not welded at that spot. I assume that it would actually weaken them if they were welded on all four sides. Be sure to isolate the rubber in the links from the welding heat if you choose to shorten the links as I did. I simply wrapped them in wet rags. I think I paid fifty or seventy five bucks for a used sway bar and link setup off of eBay. Mine is 9/16" which I think will be adequate for a driver.

Kirk Trigg

Finally found the images about LaVerne's ARB that have been missing for a few years (thanks to Microsoft). See http://www.ttalk.info/ARB_systems.htm . Don't forget to refresh your browser. If the images aren't there yet, just wait a little bit. Taking longer and longer for posted website changes to appear. Bud
Bud Krueger

Thanks Bud, I've never seen this page. It will come in handy some day I'm sure!
Ed
efh Haskell

I used a specially made 20mm bar on mine, so I won't show photos.

On the track they stop the inside back wheel lifting off, so you can actually get a bit of power down. The inside front comes off instead but that's not doing anything useful, anyway.

However, the main reason I'm commenting is to say that four or five TF's here have been fitted this way, and all our wives, partners, significant others, whatever, say that the ride is much better for the passenger. Worth bearing in mind.
D A Provan

On advice from Lawrie Alexander I used an Austin Healey sway bar. Lawrie used to work for Moss but has been in his own car business for years. Moss uses him for the tough questions. His TD is used for racing and has over 10,000 hard miles put on it every year. He has had this sway bar on his TD for many years.
I bought mine from Moss and there are published instruction on their Austin Healey web site. Several memebers of this BBS did not like the installation because of the drilling of the flange and the fear that it would weaken it. Lawrie assured me it was not an issue and I confirm after 3 plus years of usage. I have more detail in the archives.
Any sway bar you choose will make a great improvement in the handling.
Mort
Mort 50 TD

I did the used B bar and pans with new shortened links. I also bought new poly bushings for the bar. If memory serves, the bar is a 5/8" bar. To verify clearance issues, I took the springs out and then jacked each pan up and down through an entire suspension travel while turning the wheels lock to lock and then set the location of the bar based on that. I also shortened my links because I didn't like the high angle of attack of the bar with the stock b links. I got it pretty close to flat/level when the suspension is in its neutral position. I also added some stiffeners/gussets to the dumbirons to help spread the load. For the horns, I didn't want to just turn them upside down as others have done, because water can get trapped against the diaphragm with no way out. I found that Audi two note horns use the same chord and are very close to the same notes. I mounted them on the steering rack mounting posts with some custom brackets. It all worked out pretty well. She corners pretty flat now, but I can no longer hang the tail out at reasonably low speeds. I kind of preferred the old style because it added some great scream potential for my female passengers, but she does hold the road better now.

Alex
Alex Waugh

This thread was discussed between 05/06/2014 and 10/06/2014

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