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MG TD TF 1500 - Sway bar effects

I just finished installing a sway bar on my 51 TD. Earlier I installed one on my 53 TD. I haven't driven either car yet. Someone mentioned to me that a sway bar on a TD would loosen the timbers in the body frame. His reasoning is that the rear will be fighting the front. I assume he means that the rear of the car and the front will roll to different degrees when cornering. My thinking is that the addition of a sway bar will reduce body roll for the entire frame not just the front. Any sway bar experts care to comment?

Tim
TD12524
TD27611
Timothy Burchfield

No matter how good an idea is there will always be a naysayer.

I put mine on eight years ago and not one of my timbers has complained.

Mort
Mort Resnicoff

Couldn't live without mine!!
efh Haskell

Just got back from my first drive in the 51 TD with a sway bar. I must say I was very happy with the results. Even at a little faster cornering (not severe) the car remained flat and I wasn't leaning into the curve nearly as much as before. I'm very happy with the upgrade.

Regards

Tim
Timothy Burchfield


One of the best handling improvements one can make to the TD. Just my HO. It made my car much more pleasant to drive especially in a "spirited" manner.

Jim
James Neel

Tim, told ya so! Congrats.
Ed
efh Haskell

Ed, you were correct. Thank you. My doors didn't fly open during somewhat aggressive cornering so I don't think my timbers are flexing too much. :-)

Regards

Tim
Timothy Burchfield

Does anyone in North America sell a sway bar kit for the TD TF?

Tom
'54 TF
T Norby

Tom, here is a Moss list LaVerne made up for me. There were a few more items added later as I remember. LaVerne may chime in here I imagine:

Part # Description Qty Price Item
Subtotal Backorder
OK?
264-280 SPRING PAN
2 $37.95 $75.90 Yes Add to Wishlist Remove
263-778 LOCATOR PAIR w/hardware
2 $4.95 $9.90 Yes Add to Wishlist Remove
021-767 MOUNT, sway bar, rubber, 5/8"
2 $1.40 $2.80 Yes Add to Wishlist Remove
264-030 WISHBONE ARM, L/H front
1 $14.75 $14.75 Yes Add to Wishlist Remove
264-035 WISHBONE ARM, R/H front
1 $14.75 $14.75 Yes Add to Wishlist Remove
322-110 BOLT, sway bar to link
2 $1.00 $2.00 Yes Add to Wishlist Remove
264-830 LINK, L/H, sway bar
1 $15.85 $15.85 Yes Add to Wishlist Remove
264-840 LINK, R/H, sway bar
1 $15.85 $15.85 Yes Add to Wishlist Remove
454-965 SWAY BAR (5/8"), front, w/bushes
1 $159.95 $159.95 Yes Add to Wishlist Remove
Subtotal: $311.75 No To All Add All Remove All

Here's LaVerne's addendum to above:
Hey Ed, Looks like I missed a couple of parts...sorry. We will need some bolts from the hardware store too along with nuts for the link bolts..as Moss shows them NA. If you have never changed out the inner bushings this would be a good time and I would highly recommend Urethane.

LaVerne

Subtotal Backorder
OK?
280-920 MOUNT, sway bar, rubber, 9/16"
2 $1.48 $2.96 Yes Add to Wishlist Remove
263-430 BRACKET, rubber mount
2 $1.12 $2.24 Yes Add to Wishlist Remove
Subtotal: $5.20 No To All Add All

efh Haskell

There is also a Youtube video of my installation on LaVerne's Youtube channel. Holler for a link.
Ed

Here are the bushings we used:

Part # Price Description Application Qty
Rqd Qty
280-485 $2.36 Bushing, Lower A-Arm
Note: Single, 8 required
MGB 8

efh Haskell

They are all MGB parts, so if cost is important you can save a great deal by shopping around or using s/h parts from an MGB upgrade (which we don't need for road use). It also possible to modify your own spring pans by welding on a small steel tab and drilling to match the hole in the new front wishbone arms.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Also at http://www.ttalk.info/ARB_systems.htm Bud
Bud Krueger

Thank you guys.
I have it all printed and (maybe) ready for this winter's project.

Tom
'54 TF
T Norby

Tom,
When Moss motors tech support cannot solve a problem they quite often send you to Lawrie Alexanda. He used to work for them. He runs his own shop in California and races MG's.

He suggested using the sway bar from an Austin Healey. After due consideration and comparison I liked the end configuration of the Austin Healey unit better then others I had seen.

I installed the unit with no welding and did not have to take any of the suspension apart. I have many photos should you need.
Mort

Mort Resnicoff

Mort,

Pics please.

Peter
P G Gilvarry

Mort, I second Peter's request I would love to see a roll bar install that doesn't require a front suspension disassembly.

Tim
Timothy Burchfield

Parts clamped in place to locate the holes for drilling.

Mort Resnicoff

Apparently I removed the front bumper for easy access. Notice how close the top of the pin is to the steering bellows.

Mort Resnicoff

I cut the excess threaded end off the pin but it could still rub on the bellows.

Mort Resnicoff

I cut the shoulder of the pin to lower the profile.
I used Nylock nuts and I have since drilled a hole through the nuts and put in cotter pins.

Mort Resnicoff

Thanks Mort. It looks like you drilled two holes through the edge of the A arm to hold the plate that attaches the sway bar link. Is that correct?

Tim
Timothy Burchfield

Tim
A few years ago, there was lively discussion about Mort's attachment.

Mort, does this mean that your set up has performed well after years and thousands of miles of driving? The job would certainly be more straightforward if I did not need to replace the bottom A arm plates.

I think a revisit of this would be helpful for new readers.
Thanks again guys.

Tom
T Norby

Tom,

When I decided to fit an anti roll bar, I went through the same reasoning as you. I didn't want to change out the arms and pans. While checking on the method used on the YB I found found this article

http://www.mgccyregister.co.uk/technical-information/suspension/the-anti-roll-bar/

This seems to be the solution, however parts are not available and the conclusion in the article was to go to the MGA/MGB setup, this is what I did.

John

52 TD
J Scragg

Tom,
I probably have over 20,000 miles on the sway bars with no problem.
I believe all the parts are still available.

To all,
I did modify the shoulder of the linkage to make it shorter because of damage to my steering bellows. However, just as a review, my car under previous ownership wound up with a distorted frame. The front end on the passenger side dips down. I believe that is what caused the interference between the top of the link and my bellows. Since I had no interference on the driver side no one else may have to make that modification.

Only one event has occurred but it has no effect on the functionality of the system. Even though I used Nylok nuts one of them fell off during a drive. There was no damage or problem. I drilled a clearance hole in one face of each nut. I then put the nuts back in place and made them tight. Then I followed the hole through and put in a cotter pin.

Mort
Mort Resnicoff

This thread was discussed between 17/06/2018 and 21/06/2018

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