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MG TD TF 1500 - TC spoke torque

Could someone let me know the inch /pounds for TC spokes (7 gauge .175" rolled thread)
I haven't done any wheel work for 20 years and I can't find it in my records, nor can I remember much past yesterday.
Thanks
Charlie
c mac quarrie

The last time I saw it done they used the tuning method by tapping each spoke with a small metal tool. When done all the spokes sounded the same. It was interesting to watch. PJ
PJ Jennings

Charlie,

You want to communicate with Buchanan's Spoke & Rim, Inc in Azusa, California techsupport@buchananspokes.com

They make spokes, and I had a similar problem a few years ago. There are many factors in setting up a wire wheel rim. They were able to supply me with good information about torquing my spokes - sorry, I can't recall the numbers.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gord Clark

Thanks Gord
That was the next move. They have been my supplier in the past. I was reluctant to contact them as I'm not placing an order.
I'm putting on new rubber and it's an opportunity to retorque the wheels.
Charlie
c mac quarrie

Thanks Charlie. You have just added to the things I think about! I might not sleep well tonight! I have been playing with MGs for a long time, but I am constantly learning new things on forums like this.

I have built several wheels and re-spoked/trued-up many others. However, I have never thought about the torque setting. I just tighten until they sound about right when tapped. Obviously getting the wheel running "true" is always the goal, but I guess that could be achieved with all spokes slightly looser, or all spokes slightly tighter.

You are likely to find that many of the spokes cannot be altered because the threads have seized. I think that is quite common. If no spokes are loose, and your wheels run true, perhaps leave them as they are. There might not be a tension wrench which suits that job anyway.

I suppose the musical note (when tapped) is an indication of tightness, but a longer spoke would emit a lower note when set at the same tension. (Assuming the spokes don't touch where they cross over.)
If you are keen to check if your spoke tensions are about right, find a newish wheel (with the same length spokes) on a friend's car and tap the spokes. If your spokes emit a similar note, they could not be far off the mark. However, I would not be worried unless there is a very big difference. I think the aim should be to have no loose spokes, and the wheels running true.
Bob
Bob Schapel

Hi Bob
This is a maintenance project that should only come up if you have been spending too much time on the couch and if you have access to a spoke torque wrench.
I had thought about the spokes being seized, but when I built the wheels I used stainless spokes and anti seize. Could be a problem, in which case I will have avoided work and will get back on the couch.
I am the proud owner of a now near vintage Bob Schapel rear seal kit.
Charlie
c mac quarrie

Hi Charlie,
Anti-seize is a great idea. I always use it too. With your stainless spokes, there should be no problem. Good luck with the wheels.

It is a long time since I made those rear crank seal kits. Must be close to a quarter century! I think I made about 300 of them. They work really well when fitted properly. The only problem was that they were fiddly to fit. I stopped making them when I realised I was not getting much work done on my own cars. By then, Moss was making a version, although in my opinion they lost a bit of effectiveness in an attempt to make theirs easier to fit. I still have the instruction sheet on file if you need it. It is important to seal a couple of areas between the block and rear cap, whether you use an original, Moss or my system.
Yours oTCagonally,
Bob Schapel
Bob Schapel

Here's a motorcycle spoke torque wrench set, can be bought through Amazon. 100 bucks. PJ


PJ Jennings

This thread was discussed between 26/10/2022 and 07/11/2022

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