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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - TD-5779


This followed me home t0 October 2021 and is a true dry storage “barn find” with 60 yrs of dust and patina.

MG TD-5779
EXLU
XPAG/ TD/ LHX 6206
Build Date; 31-01-1951
40,000 original Miles.

PO purchased in 1960. Engine was pulled and overhauled in 1965. Pickled in oil for long term storage. Never installed and never started. Custom paintwork from the late 1950’s in two tone green. Original body color appears to have been Almond Green, green slats and green interior. Too late to delve into it deeper tonight. More tomorrow as I take inventory.


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060





W A Chasser

Someone's got some real time and work ahead of them. Hope they succeed.
JK Mazgaj

Bruce Cunha came down off the mountain the next morning and we both did a considerable amount of sleuthing.

We have confirmed that the early harness has a copper tracer wire in the loom

Loom clips face upward
Brake clips face downward.
Brake and fuel lines are painted black
Rear loom straps are the same as the differential brake line straps however the manner that they are wrapped is different.
Both Battery and starter cables have their original woven covers however the both battery helmets have been replaced with “modern style” post connectors to the battery ends
Original flex fuel lines are intact
Original brake hoses have a woven outer jacket.
The straps for the temp gauge Bourdon tube and on the R&P to support the right headlight branch of the harness are nickel plated brass.

This car was a ‘50s era mild custom by the original owner. Along with the paint scheme it has two original Dunlop 5.50-15 tires
All the tires have remnants of wide white wall toppers. The rims had beauty rings and factory hubcaps. it also has a period new never installed white vinyl side curtain set , hood and full tonneau kit. The windows have a dark tint to them. They are as new. No cracking, no stiffness.

The interior has a Arnolt heater, accessory underdash ashtray and a cigarette lighter in the center dash panel. There must have been a dealer template to do this as I have another center dash the has the same hole location in it as well.
An accessory Jaeger water temp gauge was added where the dipper switch usually was placed. The dipper was relocated to the left of the speedo where one would ordinarily see an accessory gauge. I don’t know why it was done this way.
It is interesting to note that the original dash wiring appears to be unmodified with the dipper wiring reaching all the way to the left of the dashboard. I could not see any indication of it being spliced and the harness loom has no interruptions in the sheathing. But I wasn’t on my back under the dash to thoroughly look it over. The lacquer wires are still quite discernible to their color coding and except for a few short runs were the looming has deteriorated at tahe tail lighting and headlights the harness is surprisingly intact.

External mods to the engine include an aluminum valve cover
The oil pump has an early external oil pressure adjuster
The oil filter is a steel early replaceable element type canister that appears to be a likely precursor to the old blue canisters that Moss was selling a few years back. The thermostat housing had been chromed

The second owner purchased the car in 1960 and the last registration was in 1962 but the registration sticker was never applied to the plate. So the car was likely last driven in 1961. The PO had plans to restore the car. The tub has had the mounting bolts removed but I don’t think it was ever lifted off the chassis as all the frame pads were undisturbed. Though it’s obvious that the intent was going in that direction. The engine was pulled from the bellhousing with the trans left in situ. The engine was overhauled in 1965, pickled in oil and never installed or started. The starter, distributor are dated 1-51. The dynamo is not original with a 1-52 date though it has the early pulley installed on it.

Another interesting detail is regarding the chronometric tach and speedo dials. Both gauges have bold numerals similar to the late magnetic gauges. Both TD-4834 and TD/c-8151 gauges have the outlined numbers. These are not reproductions.

All timbers are absolutely sound except the top rear tub member had been chewed on by some large furry creature. That piece had been cut in half to remove it for replacement. Obviously the PO had no idea how to get it out without damage. And it will be a pain to install a replacement. The three tack strip pieces were also gnawed off. The plywood is all solid and very usable. The only other defect is in the left A pillar at the bottom buffer pad where there is rot and will necessitate a repair. either by replacement or resin repair.

There is zero cancer or rust. The only body damage is to the Left front fender that took a very light hit. It only requires some minor dolly and TIG work.

Original chrome work is very presentable. The grill shell is dent and crack free and all chrome should clean up very well with a bit of polish. Original windshield is intact and without blemishes.

I’m really hesitant to clean the patina from this car. It’s not every day you find a car with 60 years worth of unmolested patina.

Plans For The Car:

I have no desire to restore this car and I will not part it out. This is an excellent candidate for either a sympathetic refurbishment or restoration. This should be a relatively low cost car to repair or restore

I do plan to pull the drums and service the axle bearings. Inspect the brake system and correct any deficiencies. I will drop the gear oils in the trans and diff. I plan to disassemble the engine and verify the assembly and tolerances, insure the cam is correctly timed, blue print the oil pump, and install brass core plugs. I will leave the engine in its current paint. I simply want to get it running, moving and stopping. I have a complete rubber kit so I can reassemble the sheetmetal

If some one is interested in this car just as it currently sits I will accept $4k. With the engine inspected running and installed I will accept $7k. If I do the wood work repairs that will bump it up to $8.5k. At that point your major expense will be a panel kit, seat upholstery, 1 seat squab. Finish the assembly work, add 5 tires along with some incidentals. I don’t think you can fin a more solid unrestored car with a fresh engine and low miles for that kind of money. This car just smacks you in the face as a 1950s custom.

I simply wanted to save this car from an uncertain future. But it needs a new home. Preserving this in the style the original owner created to me is intriguing but two restored cars are enough for me.

More pics on request


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060






W A Chasser

I will be fully photo documenting this car as I proceed. I wish I could hold on to this car and simply reassemble it as is. It’s truly a 1950s California Car Culture time capsule.


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060

Sorry for the picture orientations. This site is flipping them for some reason.




W A Chasser

Well I started loosely assembling the car on 15 Oct . The engine is now on my engine stand. It indeed has been rebuilt if the top of the head was any indication. I plan to pull the head and pan this Sunday.

I’ve rebuilt both carbs with fresh parts. Both apparently had been rebuilt back when the car was taken apart in the early ‘60s given that there was no fuel residue in the carbs and they had Grosse float needles and seats installed. I’m not polishing or doing any external detailing on the carbs but they are clean.


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060





W A Chasser

Yesterday, I went back to where I purchased the car and did some additional digging in the garage. I brought home the front and rear bumper assemblies complete with the missing license plate, the side curtain box and the side curtain ox door stop that was missing. They were all up in the rafters. I also came across six Craftsman wrenches and a Dunlop socket set with Whitworth and BA sockets. Sadly no original jack, lug wrench, tire pump or tools where to be found. I think we found all there was to find. I am still missing some odds and ends that I may have in my spares collection.

Time to get back to getting the sheetmetal mounted on the chassis. We are expecting rain by Wednesday so I must get this ready to be put into dry storage by Tuesday.


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060





W A Chasser


For those who may have never seen original 5.50-15 Dunlop’s here are pics of the tread design and a profile of the sidewall. These are quite deteriorated but it gives you an idea what they looked like. The white wall remnant was a overlay that would be pinched between the tire bead and rim.


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060




W A Chasser

It is starting to look like a car again.

I’m considering putting an interior back into this car if anyone has Green upholstery panels or seats they are not going to use please contact me with what you have for consideration. Did you do a color change? Stalled project that you bought a kit for, etc? Presentable used seats, Dunlop squabs, rexine panels or new repops… all considered. Thanks.


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060





W A Chasser

An accessory Jaeger water temp gauge was added where the dipper switch usually was placed. The dipper was relocated to the left of the speedo where one would ordinarily see an accessory gauge. I don’t know why it was done this way.

My TD, made July 11, 1951 (TD8986) has the dipper switch located to the left of the speedo as well.
John Quilter (TD8986)

Bill,

Great find for your collection. I have a couple of comments observed in the picture showing the distributor and oil pump.
1/ the distributor has an original Lucas RFI suppressor.
2/ the oil pump has an adjustable (after market) pressure relief valve.

John

J Scragg

Hi John thanks for your comments. Sadly I won’t be keeping this car. I simply don’t have proper storage space to preserve it. I’m hoping I can find a good home for it. This simply is the best condition barn find if ever come across as to the timbers and sheetmetal. There are so many untouched original aspects to this car that will help restorers once I start documenting it. The sale price will be increasing as I check the status of the engine rebuild from 1965. If I were to keep this car I would simply leave it as a survivor and leave the patina as it’s represents the car’s 1950s history and California’s car culture heritage. I won’t be repainting anything including the engine. But I do intend to have the engine back in the car running and driving.

I did manage to get the right rear brake backed off and freed up so it now rolls easily. It appears there is an oil seal leak on that side that gummed everything up. I haven’t had a chance to inspect the hubs yet. But the car is now mostly and Kissel reassembled with its original hardware. The weather is changing rapidly in our area as we are finally expecting long overdue rain events here. How much is anybody’s guess but the car is now safely enclosed in my trailer to continue protecting it from the elements. I’m hoping someone will step up from the forums and take a serious interest in preserving or restoring this car. But I believe doing a sympathetic service and maintaining it as a survivor would be the way to go with this car if I were to keep it. I’m not …
W A Chasser

Today I was able to begin the engine disassembly. I found something interesting that I have never seen before. The the manifold clamps are made from cast brass not iron which is what I’m used to seeing after pulling the manifolds I discovered that the manifold gasket is sandwiched copper which I’m assuming has a asbestos filling. I wish we could still get this type of gasket construction for this gasket. We still get them for the head pipe flange gaskets. The copper sandwich design is far better than those cardboard impregnated steel mesh gaskets they sell now.

When I pulled the valve cover I noticed that all the rocker adjusters were screwed all the way up. This essentially kept all the valves nearly closed which should have saved the springs from tension loss. Even so, it still wasn’t enough to keep some sort of insect from making mud homes. Thankfully the cylinders had been oiled so the bores are not rusty I’ve just got to get the dirt vacuumed out of the cylinders so that I can clean and do a very light hone. The bores are a fresh +.060. Piston’s PN 14136

Tomorrow I’ll flip the engine over and pull the pan and disassemble the bottom end. I can then begin the inspection and cleaning of all the internals


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060





W A Chasser

These are the Brass manifold clamps. Has anybody else come across these? Aren’t these usually cast iron?




W A Chasser

Engine now disassembled except for the cam and cam bearings. It was a real struggle to get the bottom end apart as the assembly 56 year old assembly lube had become petrified and the crankshaft would not rotate. The lifters were soaked with WD40 overnight in an attempt to soften the grease. It worked and with some prying with a screwdriver they eventually began to move out of the bores.

The pistons also required effort as they, too, were gummed i. Place from dried motor oil. With a piece of hardwood and a BFH they fell out the bottom. After cleaning the cylinders with hot soapy water it was a relief to find no corrosion whatsoever. Just a light touch with a ball hone will be sufficient

Inspection of the rods and pistons show thy the rods had been resized. There is no rust or corrosion of the assemblies. There are indications that the rotating assembly has been balanced the crank is now
Mains -.020 / Rods -.020. The block has been decked and line bored

The head has been decked but I haven’t measured to what depth yet.

I have yet to get the camshaft to loosen up from the bearing so it can be extracted

All and all I’m very happy with what I see and the engine should go back together after a good cleaning, cylinder honing, gaskets and core plugs. The core plugs were obviously new but I’m going to pull them anyway. I want to make sure the block’s inner core cooling holes are clear.

Bill Chasser
TD-5779





W A Chasser

I haven’t taken the oil pan apart yet but it appears that the sump has some additional baffling below the windage tray




W A Chasser

Bill: Are you sure the manifold clamps are brass and not just brass plated? Take a magnet to them and see if it sticks.
Christopher Couper

That would be an oddity if the clamps are actually brass. They have numbers cast in them, so probably not something aftermarket.
Bruce Cunha

Finally got the camshaft out of the block. WD 40. Wasn't helping so I beat the cam out the back of the block. Then used a Benzomatic torch to heat the crap out of the rear and center bearings and got the grease to become fluid. Still a fight getting the bearings off the cam journals.

Popped out all the core plugs. Hated doing it to new plugs but didn't want to trust someone else's work. They had sealed them with gooey green Permatex or a similar product. It was dried out like everything else.

Now to get the block jet washed, order core plugs, oil pressure relief and bypass valve bits, copper washer sets for the oil pipes and oil pump, pump driven shaft, Rad hoses and maybe branch pipe. Most everything else I have in my spares.

Time to toss pieces in the carb cleaner and begin cleaning up the loose parts. Piston assemblies and main caps will begin soaking in diesel fuel to soften the gummy motor oil and petrified moly lube Hopefully I can get the bearing shells removed without damage. The camshaft appears to be a new grind Plenty of meat on the base circle. It’ll have to get cleaned up before I am able to search for any numbers.


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060
W A Chasser

Another conversation with the PO’s son. He is adamant that he recalls seeing the original jack, lug wrench and tool roll along with a few minor bits from this car that I’m missing after doing an inventory of the car. I’m convinced there is a bucket or coffee tin with the rest of the bits. He will be returning to search further through the barn. There may be hope yet.


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD-5779
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060
W A Chasser

It’s been awhile since I’ve updated the thread but I feel like I finally made some progress today. Engine and trans were mated and now setting in the chassis for the first time since 1960.


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD-5779
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060





W A Chasser

Last week, I managed to replace the rotten 5.50-15 tires. Thanks to Chris Couper who donated a set of (5) NOS Royalton 5.60-15 bias plys he had in storage TD-5779 now rolls on freely




W A Chasser

When the original Dunlop 5.50s were removed from the rims I found these tubes I kept one for posterity

W A Chasser

27 July: Engine and trans mated and setting in the chassis for the first time since 1960.

7 August: Having been easily distracted with other T series projects lately, I finally had a chance to get back to work on this one. Hung the old exhaust system back onto the engine and trans. Put a battery in and twisted her tail to get the oiling system primed. That went without a hitch. Had oil pushing from the pump in 8 revolutions and after about twenty revs the rockers were drenched in oil. I’m not reading anything on the gauge at the moment. I will disconnect the line from the gauge and expel any air in the lines that would likely prevent any pressure from registering right away. But, so far so good. I forgot to get the front motor mount nuts started before taking the engine off the hoist and will need to lift up the engine to make that happen. Will also likely need to add a shim under the mount to get the correct alignment for the hand crank. Seems the new mounts being offered aren’t exactly to original spec. Surprise surprise. I also need to find a clutch rod as I found the lower one to be broken. A PO had converted the cable to a rod at some point. Although, I do have a replacement cable I got from Bruce Cunha awhile back so maybe I should just simply my life and put the cable back in where it belongs.

8 August: More progress today. I have the cooling system back in place. New hoses, branch pipe and Jubilee clips. I had to disassemble the seized radiator drain cock and clean it up and it now works smoothly. Replaced the chromed thermostat housing because the original thermostat was missing. I had an aluminum repop with a modern thermostat so I went with it. Who knows how long that will last when electrolysis takes hold. Filled the radiator with water to check for leaks. I’ll need a new gasket for the temp sender fitting. I have a drip I can’t overcome. I plan to do a radiator flush 2Xs before I add antifreeze.

Now on to rebuilding the fuel pump, flushing the hardline and removing the fuel tank to begin a 6 day vinegar and nut bath followed with a slosh with RedKote.

It’ll be close, but if my orders arrive from Moss in a timely manner I just may be able to do a first start by early next week.





W A Chasser

Bill, I have one or two spare clutch rods that are yours for the postage from SC to CA. These are Moss part 37 (451-220) on page 13. One is a repop and the other may be an original. I installed Declan's linkage so these are superfluous to my needs.

Jud
J K Chapin

Jud thank you for the offer I do have the upper rod. The PPO had changed the cable to an adjustable lower (later TD) rod., I think I’ll go ahead and change out the rod for the original cable assembly.
W A Chasser

I pulled the fuel tank off the car this morning and didn’t bother looking into the tank until I took the sender off. This is how I pulled it from the tank. No corrosion or rust which gave me a surprise. I then peered into the tank and it is absolutely clean inside. It almost had the appearance of zinc chromate on the surfaces. Since I had already assembled the needed items to acid wash the tank I decided to go forward with the project. I’m expecting to have to tank spotless by tomorrow. If the vinegar comes out reasonably clear I will go ahead with rinsing g and blow drying the tank and RedKote the interior Wednesday eve or Thursday. That’ll give me plenty of time for the sealer to cure before Monday.


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD-5779
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060

TF-8200





W A Chasser

Fuel tank is cleaned. I’ve been waiting for a fuel systems parts order to arrive from Moss for about a week only to discover I hadn’t hit the send button and it they were still in my order cart. Ugh. So I doubt I’ll be able to get anymore accomplished until after my recovery from back surgery later this week.
W A Chasser

One of the easy projects was to rebuild my fuel pumps. This is a first for me. I usually have bought from the late Dave Dubois, Burlen or Moss. I was aghast as to how much pump prices have risen. The last ones I bought were nearly half the current price from Moss. They’ve lost their mind. It doesn’t matter. Pumps aren’t available, pump rebuild kits aren’t available and bits aren’t available. What a friggin joke. Burlen is out of stock as well.

So, I’m sitting here twiddling my thumbs trying to make one of my pumps work. Replaced the diaphragm and gaskets with old stock. But I can’t get the pump to tick over. The WSM is sorely lacking coherent instructions and I’ve watched several YouTube videos but I’m not having any luck. Who is rebuilding pumps now that Dave is no longer with us? I think I’ll try to get with Lawrie Alexander and see if he can teach me how to get these working.

Today, was spent working on the back end of the tub. The top rear timber that had been gnawed on was removed. The quarter panel flange was opened up and the new timber was pried into place. With the flange worked back into position the panels were nailed and screws secured the back board to the upper and lower timbers. The chassis fuel line has been thoroughly flushed with Brakleen and compressed air. The fuel tank wedges were installed. The back of the tub is ready to accept the fuel tank.

I decided to do a second cleaning of the fuel tank. Spent half the day looking for my rubber core plugs but I’ve set them somewhere in plain sight. I will go out tomorrow and buy another pair. I’m done looking for them.


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD-5779
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060

TF-8200





W A Chasser

Bill,

Regarding your fuel pump rebuild, I wouldn't trust old diaphragms, they harden with ethanol fuel.

Try these people, they may have the parts you need.
https://www.holden.co.uk/c/hardware/fuel_pumps/su_fuel_pumps/page/1


John
J Scragg

Fuel tank is now squeaky clean inside. Tank set in place, timber drilled to accept the tire rack. Now to get the rack height adjusted so I can cinch everything down. Now if I can figure out how to make a damn fuel pump tick!



W A Chasser

After fiddling with fuel pumps the past few days I finally got one to work. But it wouldn’t pull fuel from the tank. Resolved that issue by pressurizing the tank at 2 psi.until fuel rose out of the pump outlet. Hooked up the carb lines and I now have fuel to the bowls.

The next issue is spark. I have none. I removed the breaker plate and filed the points. I have power to the coil and power from the coil. Both registering 12.3v. I have a good engine ground established I have not established a ground wire from the distributor clamp to the block. I know it belongs there but this really seems to be redundant. I will work on this tomorrow and hope to fire this engine soon. The pump and coil are operating off the key switch.
W A Chasser

Yesterday we tackled the no spark issue. More head scratching as I couldn’t figure out why I couldn’t get fire to the points. With my own tunnel vision I was looking for an electrical cause of the malfunction. After several text messages to Laverne Downey and phone conversations tossed into the mix we were able to diagnose the problem. A thank you for his extra set of eyes a very long distance away. I hadn’t and wouldn’t have even checked the distributor shaft bushings for excessive wear as being the cause, but 1/32” of play was all it took. I found the rebuilt original distributor for TD-4834 and made a temporary swap out. SUCCESS!

With a nice hot spark and the ignition timing roughed in an attempt was made to start the engine. Again the fuel pump is failing to tick. With the fuel left in the carbs from the previous nights efforts the engine made a brief sputter but not long enough to make any timing adjustments. Back to the drawing board tomorrow to diagnose the pump failure.

Last issue to deal with is no oil pressure showing on the gauge. I’m assuming this is due to blockage in the 1/8” copper line to the gauge or the gauge itself. I have plenty of oil reaching the rockers to know there is oil circulating …

Fingers crossed and I will have the engine running tomorrow.for brief warm ups. I have no belt operating the water pump. I still need to deal with a dynamo that has a bad rear end plate that is beyond repair. If anyone has a core dynamo or a good tack drive end plate available please let me know.

Bill Chasser
W A Chasser

Well I’ve given up on trying to make my fuel pumps work. The first ticks fine until the bowls are full but won’t restart as pressure relieves and it won’t prime itself. Had to pressurize the tank. The second pump I have ended up and had broken wiring to energize the magnet. So it’s junk! The third pump I have is being cleaned but doesn’t look promising either.

I contacted Holden in the UK and they are OOS as well. I decided to bite the bullet and buy a transistorized unit from Moss but I’m not happy about the ridiculous markup they’ve put on their pumps. The last pump I bought from them several years ago was half the price they now charge.

Next week this car will be running come hell or high water. I’ll take the water thank you very much.
W A Chasser

Probably too late, but NTG (MGbits.com) has electronics at a lot lower price. I bought my overriders on Monday and they are going to be delivered on Friday to my CA home.
Bruce Cunha

They say the third times the charm. Well after working in the third pump in my spares bin I actually got one to work properly. Of course that was after I ordered a new pump from Moss. Figures All it is, is cubic dollars. Decided I needed to rotate the distributor rotor a cog or two. Now I have no ignition spark. I think it is low battery voltage. With the battery on the charger I hope to get back at it in several hours and get this engine started.
W A Chasser

Success at last!!! Engine humming like a sewing machine. I don’t know how to post videos. But here is a pile of crap that blew out of the exhaust once it lit off. I’m not impressed with the oil pressure portrayed on the gauge. It only shows 20 psi at about 2000rpm hot. I think it is likely that the gauge line and gauge may be sludged up. I will investigate that issue more tomorrow.
For now I’ll take todays progress as a big win. First time this engine has run in 62 years.


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD-5779
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060

TF-8200


W A Chasser

More run in time today. 15 mins on the clock. Began dialing in the carbs and should have them well sorted soon. The fuel pump I managed to get working is still a bit wonky when it comes to keeping fuel pressure at the carbs but it’ll due until the new pump arrives.

I spent the rest on my hot day installing the door latches, lubricating and installing the top bows cleaning and fitting the seats bases. One which will require repair of the plywood befor I can attach the seat back hinge.

I attempted to stuff the wiring for the license plate bracket through the tire rack but can’t get the access I need to get the wires fed all the way through the bracket arm. So I likely will need to unbolt the rack so I can manipulate and grab a chase wire from the access hole behind the tire carrier.

I began to clean the 62 years of grunge from the dashboard. What a difference that made. Only wish a PO hadn’t dyed the green rexine to black. Still it made the effort presentable. Gauges and cluster still need cleaning.

The oil gauge has quit working and is stuck at 20psi registering in the needle. The gauge line drips clean oil so it is not a supply issue. I will be pulling the gauge an see if I can dissect it and get some lubrication on the mechanism to free it up.

It’s supposed to be 112° today so I won’t be spending a great deal of time on her. Next up is to get the old girl back up on jack stands, install the clutch cable and linkages, engine ground strap, and secure the radiator. Then it will be time to remove the hubs
And drums to inspect the brakes.

At this point progress can at least be seen






W A Chasser

This thread was discussed between 17/10/2021 and 04/09/2022

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