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MG TD TF 1500 - TD Chassis Pedal Shaft Bushing

Hello Everyone,

First when you look at the picture, I have the chassis upside down on a pair of horses because I am currently degreasing it for sandblasting.

My question is, how do I replace the bushing in the chassis for the pedal shaft (Moss Part#: 190-500)?
The pedal shaft I removed had grooves worn into the shaft. So I want to replace the bushings and the shaft.

It appears there are two bushings in the frame - one from each end. Has anyone else seen this?

Are there any special tools I need?

Best,
-Michael O'Brien


Michael O'Brien

No special tools needed. I use an old socket with the same od as the bushing and an extension and drive the bushings out. Then drive the new ones in. The new ones may need some light honing after the installation. I prefer to cross drill the new shafts as well as drill an additional hole and the "X" groove them to make sure I'm getting grease where it needs to be.
L E D LaVerne

Michael,
I have a RHD TD and the bushings are in the pedals not the chassis. If yours is LHD it may be different.

What ever you do - I would recommend drilling the center of the new shaft and putting groves in the bushing area, to allow grease to get in there from a grease Zerk on the outside of the chassis.

For me that was fairly simple. For a left hand drive set up it is a tad more complicated but very doable. This is one of the worst jobs to do once the car is all together and gets road grime on it. Now is the perfect time to solve this preventative maintenance.
Rod





Rod Jones

See http://www.ttalk.info/PedalShaftDelk.htm for a good bit about the project. Bud
Bud Krueger

Great article. Since then, the supplied thrust washers are too thick. You will have the thing entirely assembled, then can't get the circlip into the shaft groove. Unless really trashed, just use the original washers. Not so bad with frame exposed. The new frame bushings must be flush at outer edges or same will happen. George
George Butz III

I'm happy to say that 97% of the job is easily accessible to you, since you have the bare frame. With an assembled car, it is by FAR the worst job imaginable, worse than pulling the engine, even!

Do follow the above advice: groove and drill the shaft for future greasing. Soak the bushings in oil for a few days before you install them.

Drive the old bushings out, or cut them out with a hacksaw blade. CLEAN THE TUBE! drive the new bushings in, trying not to deform the bushings, and you may still have to hone the bushings to get the shaft to fit. Remember to replace the brake pedal bush, and remember to re-install the woodruff key. Grease liberally!

An easy job with the bare frame.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

If it is a RHD car I would urge you to turn part of the shaft down where it fits in the chassis so it only touches the bore in two 10mm rings. Removing this shaft can be one of the most frustrating jobs on the car. If the shaft is a tight fit along the full bore it can seize solid. I may not have explained very well but anyone who has done this job will know what I mean!

Jan T
J Targosz

Also make sure the new brake pedal bushing is filed flush with the pedal, as most are too wide. I have used an old worn pedal shaft as a bushing driver for the frame bushings. That keeps them from mushing inward. George
George Butz III

So we don't get of on a tangent, it is a left-hand drive car, not RHD.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Thank you all for your comments!

I now have a good idea on what to do!

Best,
-Michael

P.S. This is LHD.
Michael O'Brien

Michael
Dont know if this is appropriate in this situation however having installed multiple bushes in automated machinery I recommend you install the shaft in the bushes when you drive them into the chassis. I have found this prevents shrinkage in the ID of the bush.

Graeme
G Evans

This thread was discussed between 03/08/2020 and 05/08/2020

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