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MG TD TF 1500 - TD Luggage Rack vs Full Tonneau

I research this and other sites whenever I set out to work on my TD. I am presently installing a Stayfast full tonneau and I ran into a problem I have never seen discussed anywhere before. With the high fixed luggage rack installed, there is not enough clearance between the rear of the hood (Stayfast also) and the rack brackets to fit the edge of the tonneau where the notches are. I just came across a photo showing the problem but not related to a discussion of it. Not a very neat installation!
Mike
TD15250


Mike I

As I remember I had a interior and seat shop cut those U shaped notches in the tonneau out a big bigger. Not perfect but what can you do?
efh Haskell

Here is a full tonnaeu for a TF beleived to be the factory option.

Rod Brayshaw

The Moss ones fit fairly nicely. Here is mine.

There is a bit of curling but much of that is the material.



Christopher Couper

Christopher, I am using the Moss tonneau also and I can't get it down behind the rack bracket as far as you can. I added a 1/8 inch spacer behind it and it still isn't enough room. If I lift the hood rear flap up out of the way however, I can pull the tonneau notch down correctly. I can't add a bigger spacer because I'll run out of threads on the rack support bolts. Some have suggested getting the notch modified larger but I hesitate to do that.
Mike
Mike I

Mike - I too have a Moss Stayfast tonneau, along with a Stayfast hood and a luggage rack like yours (I only use it for the third brake light that I installed - I found that I didn't like my rear view obstructed). The skirt on our tonneau, while it doesn't lay completely flat, It is much flatter than on your car. The difference is the treatment of the hood attachment around the back of the body tub. A member of our local T Register talked me into fastening the the rear of the hood, using gripper snaps. Turns out that was the best thing I did on our TD. Being able to unsnap the back portion of the hood, makes it much easier to store the hood as it enables the hood to sit further down in the back of the car, with no excess fabric getting in the way of the tonneau when it is stored (see the attached picture). An additional advantage of having the back of the hood being able of being unsnapped, is that it is easier to store luggage or other items in the back of the car. Cheers - Dave


DW DuBois

Dave...Thanks for the idea. I notice you have 15 snaps on the aft side of the rear top rail, plus the two snaps at the ends of the hood, making a total of 17 snaps. Is this correct? I have 13 screw fasteners plus the two snaps on the ends making 15 fasteners total (see photo). If I made the conversion, I would like to keep the same locations. Do you think that's adequate?
Also as an aside, when the hood is deployed and you want to unsnap the rear edge, do you have to relieve the hood tension before doing so?
Thanks again
Mike


Mike I

" If I made the conversion, I would like to keep the same locations."
No reason it wouldn't work. The difference may be that I have 2 snaps on the ends of each of the straps that run from front to back. Cheers - Dave
DW DuBois

Mike,
I converted my screws to snaps many years ago and it is much more convenient. I have never had a problem with that quantity of snaps. My top fits very tight when it is deployed. I never have to relieve the front screws to unsnap the rear. On the contrary, if my top is being very stubborn about reaching my windshield I will unsnap all of the rear, then attach the front, and then go back and snap all of the rear connectors. I pull on the covering flap to help with the snaps.

Dave,
I always undid the side snaps when I put the top down to relieve the pressure and make it fit better. I never thought to unsnap them all and have a nice fit like you show. I will try that next time. Thanks for another great idea.
Mort
Mort Resnicoff

OK, you guys convinced me. Before I start, can you tell me: 1. what snaps you used (Moss 227-108 & 226-800?)
2. can you use the screw holes in the Stayfast or do they have to be punched out larger?
3. is there enough play in the Stayfast to flip over the edge to install the buttons with the tool?
Thanks
Mike
Mike I

" Before I start, can you tell me: 1. what snaps you used"
I can't remember where I go the snaps - it was probably ones I got from Agent Orange (AKA Home Depot).
"2. can you use the screw holes in the Stayfast or do they have to be punched out larger?"
Should be able to use the same holes.
"3. is there enough play in the Stayfast to flip over the edge to install the buttons with the tool?"
All I can remember was that I set the snaps after the hood had been installed on the car.
Cheers - Dave
DW DuBois

Mike: Can you measure the height of your skirt on the tonneau cover? I can check it against mine.

Note I have my top attached with snaps too and when the tonneau cover is on the top is completely clear of the back so it's not taking up any of the slack.



Christopher Couper

Chris
The skirt on my Moss tonneau is 3 inches from the piping to the bottom edge. In the notch area it's 1 1/2 inches. I haven't set the snaps yet replacing the rear hood screws. I'm waiting for delivery of the snap hardware. I'm also in the process of installing the tonneau which is going well.
Mike
Mike I

Mine is close to 3" too.

The picture you posted at the top of this thread looked larger than that.

One tip on putting on the tonneau. Stretch it more than you need when locating the two side snaps because it will tend to "snap back" when relaxed. You want the corners not to be in tension otherwise they will ride up.
Christopher Couper

Its a good idea not to put any snaps right on the rear corners, because with tension of the fabric there they will show through as a bump. On either side of the corners is fine.
Dave H
Dave Hill

This thread was discussed between 01/09/2017 and 08/09/2017

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