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MG TD TF 1500 - TD Starter (Pull) Cable Replacement

I've come to the conclusion that my solid-core pull cable is slipping out of the coupling and it will not take no for an answer.

I ordered a replacement cable (331-280) from Moss.

I'd appreciate any recommendations from cable-replacement veterans on the best (easiest) way to install the new cable in the instrument panel. Do I need to remove the instrument panel (a pain) or can the replacement be accomplished from underneath?

Thanks

Mark Sherman
Mark A. Sherman

Mark,
I won't try to guess what the problem is with your cable. However, when assembling the connection recently it took me many attempts to get the two ends equally into the coupling. On mine, the two set screws look almost like hex-head sheet metal screws. I was supprised but after several attempts all seems solid now. Good luck and patience be with you.

Jim Haskins 1953 TD
J M Haskins

Mark, when you are sure the cable is at the right length, I would recommend tinning the end with solder so the set screws have something to bite into. Mine has never slipped. Just a suggestion. PJ
Paul161

Once you disconnect the cable from the coupling at the starter switch, you should be able to remove the nut from the knob assembly at the back of the dash panel. Then the cable will simply full out of the car as a whole.

If all you want to do is to replace the inner core along with the knob, you don't need to remove the nut. Just disconnect the cable from the coupling and pull the whole center core and knob loose from the dash.

There is a small (very small) half moon shaped piece captured under a spring steel band around the knob housing at the back of the dash. If you only remove the center core, sometimes that half moon place may fall out. It is the piece that locks the cable in the out position when you pull on the choke. If it falls out, simply slide the retaining band off the cable housing, reinsert the half moon, and replace the retaining band, ensuring that the cable locks in position when you give it a quarter turn twist.

Some of the replacement choke cables do not have the locking mechanism, but if you have the notches on the choke knob shaft (where the cable attaches), then you have the locking style.
Lew3

On the starter cable, What I did was to remove the coupling unit from the starter switch. Took the screws out. Threaded the cable into the end and then down thru the hole under the holding screw. Then re-inserted the screw. Just make sure that you already have the cable threaded thru the cable stay. Then place coupler back onto the switch solid end and screw it in place. Cable can not be pulled out or slip.
M Grogan

If you have an original cable (as Lew says with notches in the shaft, also flat rather than rolled outer surface), just replace the inner core. You can go to a bike shop and buy a stranded brake or shift cable. The "original style" replacements are close to original, without the original locking mechanism. George
George Butz

Just to clarify on the original post concerning a Starter Cable assembly -

I don't believe that the starter cable assembly would have the same features as the Choke cable assembly. There is no need for a Starter cable to be "locked" in any position.
DLD

I should never post before coffee! Correct, no ratchet or lock on the starter cable. Otherwise comment correct. George
George Butz

Yes, of course, DLD is correct. No locking mechanism on the starter cable. I have replaced the choke cable so many times on various cars, I was thinking choke, not starter.
George's procedure is correct for the starter cable, although I prefer solid core wire on the starter cable and stranded on the choke.
Lew3

Here is picture of original starter cable. If this is what you have, definitely just replace the inner portion. George

George Butz

Moss does not have the solid cables. All are stranded wire.
M Grogan

Gentlemen:

Thank you all for this great information. Just a few more questions:

1) Can I assume that the solid inner cable was the original?

2) If the inner cable sticks, do you think I can pull out the inner cable, flatten it out in a vice, then replace it?

3) Since the Moss replacement is a stranded cable, has anyone had any luck replacing just the inner (solid) cable with the Moss stranded cable?

Thanks again.

Mark Sherman

Mark A. Sherman

This thread was discussed between 13/08/2016 and 14/08/2016

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