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MG TD TF 1500 - TD/TF Fuel tank cap

I am rebuilding the fuel tank cap and could use a photo of the inside. it seems that the PO replaced the gasket with a piece of rubber from an inner tube. Any sort of photo would be appreciated.
Rb Harding

I think that what you are looking for is the item below.

33 11-033 Fuel Cap Washer, Cork, TD/TF TD, TF instock 1 $0.95

From Abingdon spates.
I could not find it at Moss but they should have it also.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

Like this? Please, no comments on condition. Bud

Bud Krueger

As Jim pointed out, the cork casket is in the tank portion on the seal. The lip of the floating piece in the cap presses into the cork for the seal. Bud
Bud Krueger

A suitably sized O Ring sat in the groove of the filler neck functions fine.
G Evans

Re-gasketing the fuel cap, for the uninitiated, can bring unexpected problems.

Often, after an engine rebuild, the car will run for a few seconds, then stop.

The reason is that the gas is not flowing because the air cannot get past the seal in the filler cap.

This, by design, has to leak air, otherwise a vacuum builds up in the tank, and prevents gas getting to the engine.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gord Clark

Gord,
The opposite can also happen. When I sent my filler cap out to be re-chromed a few weeks back I put a bung in the filler hole. I didn't push it in for obvious reasons and just wanted to prevent the smell of petrol in the garage. The bung was sitting there under it's own weight.
It got quite hot that day and the sun shines into the garage. The next morning I had a small pool of petrol unter the car and the garage stank like hell. On removing the bung it was clear what had happened. The tank was under pressure and the pressure forced the petrol out through the small seal to the electrical connection box on the sender unit-not the tank aperture seal. I was able to stop it by slightly tightening the screws. Whoever designed that sender deserves in my opinion no place in heaven!
Regards
Declan
Declan Burns

Hi Declan,

How did you get a spanner to the screw? I had the same problem and had to remove the sender. Access to the unit was fine but I couldn't get get, even my slimest socket on the nut.

Two tank caps came in the box of bits which was my can. One was a stainless pressing and the other a strong brass casting. I have had the latter replated and am using it on the TF
J Targosz

Jan,
The screws on my sender are cheese head and I just used small 1/4" drive ratchet with a screw driver bit.
Regards
Declan
Declan Burns

Thank you all. It is clear that the PO had done it all wrong by adding a rubber piece on the underside of the lid instead of where the cork gasket goes on the filler. I can now see how the spring loaded part will fit against a gasket there.
Rorry
Rb Harding

Hi Declan,

I miss read your response. I thought you had been able to tighten the nut on the electrical terminal in situ. My car also has small slotted screws which were easy to remove with a stubby screwdriver.

Cheers

Jan
J Targosz

My filler neck with O ring. PJ


PJ Jennings


Problem with the cork one is you have to renew it on a regular base as a result of detoriation.

Mine is a green O-ring (matches the interior color ;-)

Jasper
Jasper Nederhoed TD3966

Another related question: Are the hinge pin and the pin for the latch a hardened "split pin"? That is the North American term anyway. I presume that a cotter pin is not suitable.
Rorry
Rb Harding

Rorry,
The original pin is not a split pin. It is a domed pin which is peeded-the peen is towards the LHS and has to be drilled out. It is not hardened. A split pin would work on re-fitting as I am not sure original pins are available and re-peening in-situ would be difficult. When I refitted my re-chromed cap last week I reamed the cap and the lugs to 3mm and used an M3 x 25mm stainless screw and nyloc. This is a bit of a fiddle but fits perfectly and the cap now closes with a nice click and could easily be removed if ever required to do so.
Make sure that cap is venting!

Regards
Declan
Declan Burns

I'm using a split pin and it works fine. The only issue I have is keeping the darn thing closed - it all too readily pops open. Probably wear on the lip of the tank, but I am not too keen on welding a bit of additional metal there!
Dave H
Dave Hill

Dave,
When I first fitted it I used the split pin and had the same problem. With the M3 x 25mm screw and nylock it clicks closed perfectly.
Regards
Declan
Declan Burns

Ok, thanks Declan, I'll give it a try.
Dave H
Dave Hill

From the Frame Up has the correct tubular pin: 9 - Chrome RIV415 Tubular Rivet, oval hd Secures gas cap and trigger (each), TD, TF 2
George Butz

George,
The original pin that I removed was not tubular. It was solid brass and round headed with a shallow hole in the end which was for peening.

Regards
Declan
Declan Burns

Declan, Your description is exactly correct. Most of what Doug at FTFU has is exactly as original, but I have not examined this exact product. The description does say oval head, tubular -does not necessarily mean hollow- just round- and even with it being hollow it would be closer to original than either a cotter pin or screw. I was able to carefully remove and re-use mine, but a couple cars in the area have screws/nuts or cotter pins that work fine. If Doug's are not original, maybe you or someone could make a batch up? George
George Butz

This thread was discussed between 09/06/2017 and 13/06/2017

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