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MG TD TF 1500 - td4834 engine teardown

Took the engine apart yesterday and found the bores to be in good shape with a fresh looking (for sitting 35 yrs) hone job. Cant feel any ridge at top of bore but I haven't removed piston and rings to check tolerances yet. I'm posting image of top of piston to show markings. Piston stamp MOWOG and looks like maybe a .040 oversize(?) can some one confirm this also piston top does exceed the blocks deck height when at TDC Haven't measured that distance yet either image to follow
W. A. Chasser Jr

I forgot to mention, my smooth oil pan has been welded inside and out on the sump bottom. long longitudinal weld full length of sump on outside. spider welds inside along with the longitudinal weld. My guess is that it took a hard impact from the outside at some point Very disappointing. does anyone have a spare pan they would be willing to part with. I see one on EVIL PAY that looks like it has a bigger sump and is finned. could this be found on my 51 dated 12-7-1950?
W. A. Chasser Jr

I thought the finned pans and non finned pans fit all XPAG engines, seeing how all the blocks are basically the same. Some made for RHD might have the clutch pin boss only on one side, not sure. Oil pump pickup tube location might be different on later models. ?? PJ
Paul S Jennings

HI PJ. I know they will fit. I guess the question would better be put this way, When did the finned pan come into production? Would it have been fitted to a '51 originally or was this an aftermarket item?

THanks
W. A. Chasser Jr

The ribbed sump came in early 1952, around car TD15000. but engines and sumps got moved around, so you may find one anywhere.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Paul, FYI, all the pans were fitted with clutch pins on both sides as far as I know.
Jim Merz

Most engines I have worked on have pistons which protrude above the deck. Maybe it is because the blocks get skimmed to true them up? I don't know exactly what the maximum protrusion should be, but I would think up to .015" should be OK. This assumes the gasket compresses to about .040" thick, leaving about .025" clearance. A good engine reconditioner might be able to give better advice. I once worked on an engine which had varying length conrods. Deck protrusion varied from about plus .030" to minus .020". It must have previously suffered some trauma! Unfortunately I had to discard a couple of conrods which I had spent a lot of time polishing. Bob Schapel
R L Schapel

Ideally the pistons protude only just with the camfered side of the piston top.

My pistons protuded too much (see picture) I solved this with a .090" thick copper gasket as I measured .045" on an old gasket.

Willem van der Veer

Did your oil pick up have the small can type strainer or the horn type unit?
Bruce Cunha

Wilhelm, your pictures is what I'm seeing on mine. I haven't measured the height yet to see just how far up they are


Bruce, I was so disgusted see the damage to the pane I didn't pay attention to the pickup. I just buttoned the engine back up and hoping when I take it back apart it will be NOS. Is there one p/u that is better than another? Is there something I should be looking at in particular/ be concerned about beyond just the sump damage?

R L, thanks for the story, sounds like the crank grinder offset a journal...

T Lange on when the change occurred

Re the clutch pin boss; is that the piece that holds the end of the cable sheath at the pan? I realized that I'm missing this piece. I think one was recently on Evil Pay but I didn't know what I was looking at. uhg! Does anyone carry this item or have a spare to sell?

Does anyone have experience with the reproduction oil pan being offered? is it true to the original? How's the fit? Didn't really want to go that route. I already have another unexpected big ticket Item in the differential repair coming.


i'll try to get pics on tomorrow
W. A. Chasser Jr

W.A.

There was a reason they went from the horn type to the can type. I remember something about the horn could draw air in hard cornering. Others may be able to expound on it.

My Blown engine had the horn system (was not a factor in my engine failure). The replacement engine I got did not. My pickup tube was so damaged that I could not use the Horn. I think I remember you cannot put the horn on the pickup tube for the can type.

Staying with the cable is your preference, but they went away from it for a reason. Early TD's do not have any issue with using the solid rod system.


I do have a clutch cable stop that I would be willing to part with. I can;t see me going back to using the cable.
Bruce Cunha

Did the pan leak? We used to weld up motorcycle engine cases with pretty bad damage and they worked fine. I thought the "'horn" pickup was iin later production to minimize sucking air, as it was a nice flat opening near the bottom of the pan. I think the round pickup was originally to the side, then moved to the center later for the same reason? The two vs. 4 hole mounting on the side of the pan is what matters as far as interchanging the parts. George
George Butz

I will pull the pan off again and take a look at what I have. As far as the pan being porous, I don't know that either. The welding inside the pan is not pretty. Looks very amateurish attempt or like they tried to weld contaminated metal. Given its appearance I don't put much stock into its integrity. I received TD4834 as a basket case. There are a lot of rods I cant identify, Maybe I have a bell crank system. Again I will endeavor with the camera

Thanks everyone for all your help. I'm new to the TD world and want to build this car right. It has been apart over 35 yrs and two PO's and I vow to get this project back up and running again
W. A. Chasser Jr

W. A.

Should be in Placerville around Aug 6th. Once I get settled, I would love to stop by and see where you are. Probably can assist with sorting out parts for you.
Bruce Cunha

Bruce, Looking forward to it.
W. A. Chasser Jr

This thread was discussed between 19/07/2014 and 23/07/2014

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