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MG TD TF 1500 - Testing valve springs in head

Does any one know a good way to test valve springs while they are installed in the head. I really do not want to remove the head if I don't have too.

...CR
C.R. Tyrell

The only test I can think of with installed valve springs is a visual test...are they broken or not? Other than that you need to remove them and check tension with a Rimac (or other) valve spring tester.
Gene Gillam

You can find valve spring compressors for removing springs without removing the head. For a variety to look at...Gogle "valve spring compressors" and then look at IMAGES FOR VALVE SPRING COMPRESSORS

If you want to measure the spring force, you could modify the attachment that compresses the spring so it doesn't lose the keepers, and attach a torque wrench to the handle for measurement. Do the math for your leverage and you'll get a good idea of your springs.

I say this more in gest, but, since the valves in these engines are vertical, there's a cheap way to evaluate them if you own a chainfall. Hang a 114lb weight from the garage ceiling and lower it down on the valve. If it opens, it is weak. If you want to find out how weak, reduce the weight.

If you're not racing, is it really worth it?
JRN JIM

The reason I am asking , is that I think the valve spring (which were replaced at the re-build) are much stiffer than the originals. I think they may have been the reason for the failure of the tappets and cam in the first place. I am thinking that the current new springs may have the right tension for the roller cam set-up that is going to be installed. If I can, I would like to not disturb the head on the engine. So I want to be able to check first.

My AEM has suggested using a torque wrench, old style to check them. If I come up with a good way i will post here.

.... CR
C.R. Tyrell

Just found this on the Internet...maybe you can rig up something like it. I never knew they existed: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-67597
Gene Gillam

There are basically two valve springs available, a 125# and a 150#. The former are the standard XPAG springs; the latter are the TD/C and TF springs. The latter cause greater and faster cam wear, and are un-necessary unless you are regularly revving over 5300 RPM.

On my rebuilds I ALWAYS use the 125# springs. Although it is possible to remove valve springs in situ, it is probably easier to remove the head and test one.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Tom, can I contact you by e-mail, off the BBS?

...CR
C.R. Tyrell

CRF - my address is above my post always. Feel free to contact me any time.

Tom
t lange

This thread was discussed between 25/11/2014 and 28/11/2014

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