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MG TD TF 1500 - TF Door Bumpers
How do these 4 rubber bumpers (photo)attach to the TF front quarter panel? That's a new front latch pillar piece(installed by Fenton Bagley): Do I need to cut out a little bit of wood for the rubber to fit flush? thanks, Tyler ![]() |
Tyler Irwin |
Yes, enough so the center is recessed allowing the sides to overlap the metal in the door jam. |
R Brown |
They are attached with 4 flat headed brads (same as the cowl strip). If it sticks up just grind the rubber from the backside. |
Christopher Couper |
I would shave the rubber rather than alter the body. One is easily replaced, the other is the body. |
MAndrus |
Chris, Is that 4 brads per rubber? One in each corner of a bumper? What's a good way to shave rubber off such a small piece without messing it up? thanks, Tyler |
Tyler Irwin |
Tyler, I bought myself an electric file which is basically a mini hand held belt sander. one of these would be ideal for sanding down the rubbers. |
Max Irvine |
Hi Tyler, Chris is correct, four(4) flat head pins for attachment. Re shaving the door buffers,it is made simple and the amount perfectly controlled by use of a pneumatic linisher mounted on a bench grinder.You can pump the rubber tyre of the wheel linisher up to the hardness you like and attach various grades of abrasive paper to suit the rubber buffer thinning/sanding. Cheers Rob Grantham TF3719("Aramis"),TF9177("Athos"). |
R GRANTHAM |
Tyler, That is four(4) per rubber buffer. Basically each coner,however,come in a little from the edges to allow the rubber the tack heads to go below the level of the rubber surface.I know you will not want to scrape that paint on your TF! Cheers Rob G. |
R GRANTHAM |
Tyler, That is four(4) per rubber buffer. Basically each corner,however,come in a little from the edges to allow the rubber the tack heads to go below the level of the rubber surface.I know you will not want to scrape that paint on your TF! Cheers Rob G. |
R GRANTHAM |
When you typed "linisher" I assumed it was a typo for "finisher" but you typed it again so I figured you meant it. Always willing to learn, I looked it up and find that " Linish is an engineering term that refers to the process of using grinding or belt sanding techniques to improve the flatness of a surface. The flatness may be two-dimensional, i.e. with the view of achieving a flat plate, or one-dimensional, e.g. with the view of achieving a perfectly cylindrical shape. The machine that does this may be called a linisher or a linish grinder. The technique may also be used, with finer grades of grindstone or sanding belt, to polish a surface. A specific use of the term linishing is for the preparation of the ends of rubber extrusions that will be fused together to make a closed loop" Source Wiki. That "specific use" sure sounds like what may be needed. Here's a picture of a pneumatic linisher: https://www.toolsshop.ch/media/pdf/en/en079551.pdf It's great to learn something new on a cloudy, cold Sunday morn. Jud |
J K Chapin |
Tyler, I am working on this same area of the tub at this time replacing the right main beam, hinge pillar, and latch pillar. The wood on the latch pillar where the rubber door buffer attaches is relieved a little more than a 1/16 inch. It is the same on the wood I removed and the new replacement wood. If you look at the drawing in the Moss catalog of the body timbers the cut outs for the door buffers can be seen. I will install the buffers with the same nails used to nail the metal skin to the wood and not trimming the rubber. |
F. Driver |
This thread was discussed on 22/02/2015
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