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MG TD TF 1500 - TF Door Lock Shims?

I have the right side door on my '54 TF fitted and aligned right where I want it. It's sitting on the front edge rubber buffers and the rear side is approx 1/8" from the body tub. The problem I'm having is that with the striker plate/wedge screwed in place the door lock pin is approx 3/8" short of fitting in the striker plate hole.
It seems that the lock assembly needs to be shimmed inward so the pin will reach the striker. I see that our MG vendors sell lock shims which are 1/16" thick. Is it uncommon or common to have to use that many shims on the lock? Thanks, Lou
L Staller

It depends on how thick your door panels are. The originals were probably thicker than what you have now.
Christopher Couper

You can use the shims, OR, you can remove the latch hardware and carefully chisel away enough wood to bring the latch plate outward enough to move the latch to the elusive second click. It depends on how much time and patience you have. I have installed the shims on customers cars, but I can't stomach them on my cars.
One or two shims are not too noticeable, but I have seen them stacked up to close to 1/2" before.
D. Sander

All valid points above. Is the door panel in place? If not, need to make something same thickness to mock up. Is the latch pillar new? I had the exact same issue on my car with new latch pillar. I used chisels and a dremel, removed wood as needed,and carefully tapped/bent the metal flange over, etc. to get the striker moved outward. No shims needed in the end. George
George Butz

A up to 1/8 shim can be inserted under the door lock assembly to pack it out. Shape and profile has to be the same as the back of the lock. The chrome cover will hide this shim and there is enough length in the exterior handle stem to facilitate this.

Thickness of the shim is also determined by the thickness of the door upholstery panels which is affected by the amount of compression force that you apply when tightening the lock retention screws.

Another issue that effects the process is the depth of lateral penetration of the wedge. The door lock wedge actually enters the lock on an arc so this is critical.

Also ensure the door lock and wedge are meeting in the same horizontal plane.

Always commence with a non distorted striker mounting plate and holes in the frame that are deep enough for the chrome retaining screws to not bottom out.

The whole set up is primitive engineering with numerous factors effecting an outcome.

To obtain proper door fit and locking has taken more hours than to restore the rest of my TF so hang in there.

Graeme

G Evans

Dave et al who have worked with new latch pillars. Are the new ones not routed out for the striker plate?

I ask because this topic comes up often and many times it seems people have replaced the pillar.
Christopher Couper

I guess I forgot about the door panel!
Question for those who have recently had new upholstery installed; what is the approx thickness of your (new) door panel? Is it less/more then approx 3/8", as that is the gap between the lock and striker on my car.
I would rather not carve the wood to make it fit but have no problem using shims. Thanks. Lou
L Staller

Christopher,
The wood I have used is from Craig Seabrook, and it is machined out beautifully to accept the latch pillar.
All, There is another option I have used in a pinch. I have installed four washers under the door panels (with the mounting screws going through them) to bump the latch assembly out enough to hit the second click. It is a hack to be sure, but another option to use.
Before I attempt to make the latch work correctly, I remove both the striker and the latch assembly and test fit them on the bench. Often I have to replace the striker, and/ or file out the latch assembly to accept the wedge to the second click.
David
D. Sander

I must have pretty thick door panels as I have actually had to shim my strikers :-)
Christopher Couper

I think I'm going to be OK with the way it all fits together. I looked at my old crappy door panels, which I will be replacing and they seem to be as thick as the gap between the lock and bare door panel.
I now have to get the left door to fit and close like the right door I just finished. So far it looks like it's going to be a easier job then the right side. At least I'm hoping!
Thanks for all your input. Lou
L Staller

BTW, I used my old door panels and cut pieces out as mock up shims, you could do that with your old ones.
George Butz

This thread was discussed between 31/08/2014 and 03/09/2014

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