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MG TD TF 1500 - TF Hide-em trim edge

I have a couple of TF questions for fitting the Moss interior side panels.

1. What does the tail end of the Hide-em look like at the rear end of the rear side panel? Please see photo. Is it a straight vertical cut even with the edge of the panel? Send a photo if possible.
thanks, Tyler



C.T. Irwin

2. How about the finished end of Hide-Em at the front end of the rear side panel where it meets up with the Under-the-Door interior trim piece (that's attached to the front side panel by a piece of Hide-Em)? See photo.

Thanks for any help.
Tyler

C.T. Irwin

CT, I'm waiting to see what you get for an answer, as I need to know the same thing. I'm getting very close to installing my panels also. PJ
Paul S Jennings

There was just a post recently showing this I think and I'm pretty sure it's covered on Dave's web site for a TD but s/b the same. As I remember you pull the white stretchy tubing out an inch or so and cut about an inch of it off. It will then pop back inside the vinyl. This gives you a flat section of the vinyl to fold over on itself or under the panel and staple. But don't go by me, it's been a few years.
Ed
efh Haskell

Q1: Just cut flush. Maybe add a dab of glue so the stitching does not unravel.

M Magilton

Q2: T intersection. (Hope you have enough length). Partly obscured by carpet in the pic.

Matthew.

M Magilton

I respectfully disagree with the "cut it flush" above. Anyone else?
efh Haskell

My method was to push the covering back and snip of the stiffeners flush with the panel, I then folded the surplus under the panel. On one section my upholstery kit supplier had followed this method and stapled the end to the panel back.

Matthew is a TF originality expert what he has posted would probably be the way the factory did it.

Graeme
G Evans

Yes, the pic shows factory upholstery. Of course it is not hard to improve.

Matthew.
M Magilton

thanks Matthew,

Unfortunately, Moss doesn't give you enough Hide-Em to do the T intersection (lacking about an inch). What's good alternative for finishing this section of Hide-Em?

Tyler
Tyler Irwin

Maybe you could try to join them in a single curve? This would probably involve unstitching/unsticking the bottom end of the vertical piece but could leave a mark. I wonder if the supplier will supply a longer length of hidem? They probably need to know about this problem. Just my thoughts.

Matthew.
M Magilton

The attached picture is of my TD. Not the same but perhaps it may give you some insight.

Yes Moss is very skimpy at this point. I removed the plastic rod just at the edge of the fold.
To do this I opened the Hidem up and used the point of an Exacto knife, on the inside, to just puncture the rod. You can then brake it off just at that point by pulling lightly on the end of the rod.

I used contact cement (in the can) to secure the Hidem around and just under the door piece. Use two (or 3) coats, allow to dry 20 minutes between coats and 30 minutes on the last coat. Fold over, clamp and let set over night.
Trouble is that the two Hidems but against each other and can leave a gap. You may want to glue a piece of vinyl onto the door sill at and behind the gap.
To minimize the gap, I secured the front edge of the under door panel and the entire rear quarter panel first. The under door panel was not secured for the length under the door.

I had placed it so that without the Hidem rapped the two pieces should just touch.

I then bowed the door panel forcing the two pieces together and worked them closed buy securing them slowly from the door front to the gap.

BTW I used #6 pan head screws to secure the panels.

JA Benjamin

As I remember, the Horst book goes into detail about this topic (it's been a few years??). I had adequate material in my Moss kit to do the method I (and others) described above. So did Horst as I remember.
efh Haskell

There's another recent threat on this subject: http://www2.mg-cars.org.uk/cgi-bin/or17?runprog=mgbbs&access=&mode=archiveth&subject=8&subjectar=8&thread=2014100916184029318

If the link doesn't work do an archive search for 'Hidem at "B" piller'

Joe
Joe Olson

Joe,
That link works for me. I did not remove any stitching. Like I said above, I just grabbed the end of the tubing with a needle nose and stretched it then cut the tubing. It then popped back into the trim leaving a nice flat still-stitched end to fold over on itself. Why remove stitching and risk it unravelling even more?
Ed
efh Haskell

This thread was discussed between 12/12/2014 and 13/12/2014

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