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MG TD TF 1500 - TF Hood Reattaching


All hood(top) "experts,"

I need to reattach my '54 TF's hood that had been removed by the PO some years ago. What would be the nomenclature and size of the two bolts for each side, just behind each seat, going into the tub that attaches the hood fulcrum on both sides - and sources since I have never had them?

Also, could anyone recommend the type fasteners to reattach this hood to the rear of the tub? When the PO removed the hood, he pulled out the "tacks"/fasteners and I need to use whatever best serves the purpose to best secure the hood. And, could I use lift-the-dots, or snaps that would allow for an occassional removal - would that be practical and secure enough to protect from the weather elements?

THANKS in advance!

Jerry

Jerry Chandler 1951 TD

Many of us use snaps for the back since they will lay flatter under the flap than lift the dots.

Much better idea than tacks or staples, makes loading the "boot" much easier
Don Harmer

Go for the snaps. Nobody but you will know and as Don points out, its so much easier. And the tonneau cover will fit better too.

Chris Couper

A pic of my TF frame attachment if that helps. Phillips wood screws were used.

Cheers,
Matthew.

M Magilton



Don, Chris, and Matthew,

Thank you fellows for your suggestions and recommendations. For my TF it looks like snaps for the rearmost of my hood and Phillips wood screws for the supports/fulcrum points on each side. By the way, as I have never taken on this task - are there specific snap "sets" recommendations (should there possibly be several options)? That may be an asinine question, but I just don't know. Hoping to get this done by the end of this weekend if I can find these parts you suggest.

Very gratefully,

Jerry
Jerry Chandler 1951 TD



Say Matthew,

What length Phillips wood screws do you suggest? Did you paint the screw heads to match the color of the "rigging?"

Jerry

Jerry Chandler 1951 TD

Considering the forces, I would go for about the largest size that will fit the bracket and the timber.
The Phillips heads still have traces of the factory paint to match the bows. The sidescreen trim nuts were also painted to match which must have been a tedious job. Most of the paint in my pic is factory, with just a little touching up at the wear spots.

Matthew.
M Magilton



Thanks, Matthew!

Now, if some kind souls might chime-in with info as to the snap sets (size - dimensions - etc.). The existing holes in the rear deck where the former "tacks" were located number 5, evenly spaced. I assume that number will be adequate for snaps placed in those spaces.

I REALLY appreciate you guys!

Jerry

Jerry Chandler 1951 TD

Jerry. Its the same snaps you use for the side curtain strap if that helps. As you can see on my picture they are every 3 - 4 inches.
Chris Couper



Chris,

As I mentioned, my top has five existing holes on the rear from which the "tacks" holding it in place were removed by the PO. Should that be enough?

Jerry

Jerry Chandler 1951 TD

Jerry,
I'll offer this one up again.
If you are going for "concourse correct" this is unacceptable.
If you want to be able to access door hinge adjustment without removing hood hardware or bending the panel it has worked well for me and a few others.
http://www.ttalk.info/Sheward.htm

Cheers,
David
David Sheward



Thanks, David.

I assume you think this is the way to go (snap sets) unless I am attempting to be true to "concours." Am I naieve to think it could be fairly easy to go back to concours condition, at least as far as the "connectors" for the rear "deck" are concerned?

No one has addressed my query about five being okay. As I mentioned, that is how many were removed (tacks or, whatever the correct identity of the original fasteners) when the hood was taken off my TF by the PO.

I apologize for prolonging this thread. I am really wanting to get my arms around this solution.

Gratefully,

Jerry

Jerry Chandler 1951 TD

Jerry, 5 seems a very strange number for the hood, but a fair number for the rear tonneau. Could they be the tonneau stud holes in the metalwork? My hood still has the factory screws and washers which are hidden under the rear flap and they are spaced about every 3 inches along the wooden rear tack strip. If the spacing was much wider apart then you might get some tension-arching of the hood.

Matthew.

M Magilton

If you use the snaps you could drill the snaps out of the flap and put in the washers and screws as Matthew showed you on his post above.

Note Matthews and mine are identical in spacing but mine has a snap stud on the wooden railing and a snap on the flap where the original one like Matthews is just the finishing washer and screw.

BTW I have never had a concours judge complain about my snaps because they have never seen them. If it gets to that point so be it, but usually there is something a lot more compelling about a car that fails it before that becomes an issue.

For example look at Matthews gas tank ends. His are originally painted. I have yet to find a concours car that does not have taped gas tank side panels. That's more noticeable than some hidden snaps. On top of that the judges are not supposed to touch, lift or open items and only supposed to ask you to open the bonnet so they should never see your snaps.
Chris Couper

It wasn't till years after my hood was installed that I saw the idea for using snaps. Had I thought of, or known about it, I would have done mine that way. (Mine was installed with staples.)
David Sheward



Chris Couper,

Do you happen to have a photo you could post from the rear in order that I might view the spacing of the snaps?

Also, there are suggestions of using snaps made of brass, stainless steel(marine), and what other possibilities.? Any STRONG recommendations?

I hope to end this thread soon.

Always grateful,

Jerry



Jerry Chandler 1951 TD

Jerry: I don't have a picture handy of the whole tack strip for the hood but it you look at the picture I posted at the top of the thread you will see the first foot or so. The spacing is about 3-4". Use 3" on the corners and 4" on the straight areas.

As far as the snap material type. I think they are all brass and stainless. I have never seen a rusty snap, but you might want to make sure.
Chris Couper



Hooray!

The hood is back on after who knows how many years. Thanks in large part for you fellows encouraging, instructing, suggesting, and showing via photos how to achieve this task. Lots of stretcjing was required - still required, even as I write.

Perhaps I will soon learn how to post an image on this forum and you all can exhale and think - thank heaven he's done with this thread!

Best to all my advisors,

Jerry
Jerry Chandler 1951 TD

You may find less stretching is required once you have clocked up some miles at speed.
Just remember to never pack away a damp hood.

Matthew.
M Magilton

This thread was discussed between 30/10/2013 and 14/11/2013

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