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MG TD TF 1500 - TF rewire

Just about to start a rewire of my TF1500. Is there a best way to start please? I've bought a complete loom from Octagon Car Club.
JK Mazgaj

I would add that there are no tags or instructions so my only guide is a wiring diagram
JK Mazgaj

If you can read a wiring diagrame its easy (refer to the workshop manual). The most important thing is to remember the routing of the cables when you rip out the old loom. I just snipped it next to every termination and pulled it out of the car. You should have two parts - the main loom and the subsidiary loom that goes behind the dash. First thing to do is label up the easily identified ends with white tape and ink. Best place to start the install is to figure out the front end from the back then feed the loom behind the pedal box from the front, per the original. Next bring the front part up the bulkhead and feed the required section through the grommet into the under dash area. The clips that hold the loom to the chassis are notoriously brittle so you will need spares.
Dave H
Dave Hill

"First thing to do is label up the easily identified ends with white tape and ink. Best place to start the install is to figure out the front end from the back then feed the loom behind the pedal box from the front, per the original. Next bring the front part up the bulkhead and feed the required section through the grommet into the under dash area. The clips that hold the loom to the chassis are notoriously brittle so you will need spares."
THANKS DAVE. THAT'S JUST WHAT I NEEDED TO KNOW. HAVE ALREADY STARTED LABELING. Car had been sort of rewired previously. Cables all over the place. Plus I'm in the process of converting the car from LHD to RHD
JK Mazgaj

Just a word of caution: When you feed the loom through holes, brackets, behind the pedal box, I like to cover it in one layer of very thin painters tape. This keeps it clean (pedal box) or prevents it being chaffed.
Christopher Couper

LHD or RHD doesn't change the wiring in any significant way. I made the change on my car as well.
When I mentioned the pedal box it was because I left the LHD box in place, just in case somebody wanted to swop it back in future. The loom always runs down the LH side.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Get hold of a copy of the Vehicle Wiring Products catalogue. They sell every terminal, clip, wire, grommet etc that you will need to finish the job. I made up a loom myself to include relays and extra fuses and they supplied every part I needed the day after I placed my order.

Jan T
J Targosz

New looms usually come with the vast majority ,if not all the required fittings already attached (certainly mine did), though a few spares might be handy.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Two tricks I found useful:

put a 5map fuse in the line which goes to the dashboard from battery feed to the starter. If you have made any wiring errors this will prevent the escape of the essential Lucas smoke. When all is done and dusted it can be removed and the engine fired up, the lights blazing and a satisfied smile on your face.

I also found it helpful to identify the wire mentioned above and work from there logically to label all the ends, as the Blower diagram is very helpful but only after you have worked out what it is telling you from your own examination.
Ian Bowers

Thank all. Great idea regarding the fuse Ian. Only problem I've found so far is that the wire stripper I own is not the best item for the braided covered loom but I'm progressing.
JK Mazgaj

Best to cut the braid first with a very sharp blade, e.g. Swann Morton, X-Acto or single edge razor, then the vinyl underneath with a wirestripper.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Here is where originality becomes contentious. The neatest way to finish the cut ends of braiding is to use heat shrink tubing but it wasn't invented in the 1950s!

Jan T
J Targosz

Very true, but I've used plenty.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Hi Dave,

I know that other contiibutors to this site like the work Edd China does but I shudder when he shrinks the sleeves with the side of his soldering iron. A warm air paint stripper does a far better job. I now have lots of sleeving, purchased at a knock down price at the Maplin closing down sale.

Jan
J Targosz

Yes, I always use a hot air gun - it gives more even results than the edge of a soldering iron ever could.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Thanks Jan T for the Vehicle Wiring Products lead.

I hadn't known about them before. I have downloaded the catalogue already.

Ron
Ron McDonald

Word of caution after installation and you are ready to check out you new wiring harness DO NOT connect it to the battery. Get a small charger, 4 to 10 Amp. and connect it to the battery terminals. If there is a problem such as a short it will trip off. Not ruining your new harness.

Ed
ECS Stanfield

Word of caution after installation and you are ready to check out you new wiring harness DO NOT connect it to the battery. Get a small charger, 4 to 10 Amp. and connect it to the battery terminals. If there is a problem such as a short it will trip off. Not ruining your new harness.
WHAT GREAT ADVICE ED. THANKYOU.
Reference using a hot air gun. I sneaked out my wifes' hair dryer. Works well and not so hot.
JK Mazgaj

I think Ed means to connect the charger to the battery cables, not to the battery itself. Bud
Bud Krueger

Yes that's what I assumed he meant. But thank you for pointing it out
JK Mazgaj

This thread was discussed between 10/12/2018 and 17/12/2018

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