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MG TD TF 1500 - TF Top Bow Question

The front cross brace that the wood attaches to has a weld in the center, is this a repair or is it normal to be there? Here's a pic, but it's very poor. My cameras broke and the other one we have doesn't have a mini setting. PJ


Paul S Jennings

Hi Paul,

I am also restoring my hood frame. The front bar was split in the centre. I couldn't tell if this was deliberate or a fracture so have welded it like yours but it now looks as though two piece construction is original! My upholsterer who has made many T Series hoods has recommended the rear is attached to the body above the fuel tank with turn buckles. This will allow the rear of the hood to be opened so luggage can be easily placed on the rear shelf.


Cheers


Jan
J Targosz

Jan: Turn buckles? I think there is a translation problem. Most of us use snaps here under the flap. Note the two straps still need to be solidly secured with screws or tacks.

Christopher Couper

Thanks for the split front piece info. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Hi Chris,

The hood has still to be made and I am unsure of the exact type of fastner the trimmer is recommending. I had assumed they would be of the type where a ferrule, with an oval hole, is fitted to the material and a "turn buckle" fitted to the body.in use the oval hole is placed over the turn buckle, which is turned through 90degs to secure. I know "lift a dots" could be used but they are not as easy to use.

Jan
J Targosz

Jan, is the trimmer referring to the straps? Never heard of that before. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Jan - I believe that you mean turn buttons (and that is probably still not the correct name). They are a rectangular piece about 3/8 inch high that fits through a metal grommet, the turned 90° to lock into position. I used large gripper snaps on the rear of the top. They are less conspicuous than the turn button arrangement, but a bit more difficult to unsnap at times. The final result it to give you a 'hatch back' TF, making it vastly easier to load thing into the back of the car when the topis up. Cheers - Dave
D.W. DuBois

I used snaps on mine but find those on the ends / sides unsnap a bit too easily.
Dave H
Dave Hill

I know what he is talking about. I think they will stick up to high under the flap.

They appear to be called Common Sense, Murphy or curtain fasteners.


Christopher Couper

Sort of stealing this thread but ...

Many of us use snaps because they hide easily under the flap. Note its generally a good idea to hold down the strap with the snap stud and mine even has a small tack to keep it from torquing.



Christopher Couper

Jan, I think your right, but don't know, about the front piece is supposed to be split! Reason I think this is because mine was welded straight and it won't lay on the new wood correctly. It needs to be split and flexible to follow the arch in the wood, mine hangs below it somewhat and the wood needs another 3/4" bow put in it, that will make it worse yet. Solution, I'm cutting the weld out, it certainly is not a factory weld anyway, those guys didn't weld that bad. Here's a frontal shot of how the frame hangs below the wood and the wood is not fully arched yet, which will make it even worse! With a screw hole 1 inch from the split on each side, tells me it wasn't welded originally. PJ


Paul S Jennings

Chris, Your not stealing the thread! That piece of information is well received. Thank you! PJ
Paul S Jennings

Paul, I was thinking that my frame had a real ugly weld in the middle. I found this shot when I was trial fitting the wooden bow, before covering the metal. You can see the offset in two planes, two nearby screw holes, and the ugly factory weld. This part had remnants of the original hood fabric over it, so I'm sure original. George

George Butz

Thanks George, I have no idea why mine is straight, it should have a slight bow in it to conform the arch in the wood. In any case, I have to cut out the weld, re shape it to fit the wood and possibly re weld it with my MIG welder. I have the old wood piece I can clamp it to tack weld it. Thanks for the picture, it explains a lot. PJ
Paul S Jennings

My Hood Frame is welded at the Front Center. Also a rather 'unattractive' weld. It is a good weld structurally....but that's it. I just checked another Frame I have. It has the same weld....with the same appearance. Perhaps the Weld appearance was just not important to the Hood Frame builder. It is not seen when assembled. I dressed mine up so that it would lay flat on the Header Rail, but it wasn't really necessary.
Mike-TF8257
M Brand

Thanks Mike, I looked at mine again this morning after Georges post and decided to cut from the bottom up about 3/4 of the way and see if it will bend up just enough to fit the wood better then re weld it. I to will grind the poor looking weld off. Now I need to soak the wood and ad some more arch in it before doing that, about 1/2 inch on each end to lay on the windshield frame properly. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Paul, looks like your weld in the center of the top frame is really good. Mine looks like a one eyed, one armed welder did it at the end of the work day.
F. Driver

This thread was discussed between 07/06/2015 and 08/06/2015

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