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MG TD TF 1500 - TF Wire Wheel Axle Nuts

The archive identifies that both rear axle nuts are RH Thread, could someone please confirm this before I go ballistic attempting to undo mine.

Thanks
G Evans

I beleive that is correct as Half shaft can go in either a left or right side they are not handed like the front spindles. That said however once you have installed a halfshaft it should be kept in that location. Torque to 150 Lbs/ft
Rod
Rod Jones

Hi G (Graeme?) I had a devil of a job taking my axle nuts off, both RH, had to resort to someone with an expensive Snap-on rattle gun to get them off. Mine at 100lb on my compressor wouldn't budge them.
Good luck, Don TF 4887
D J Walker

Thank you fellas all came to a positive result. Someone may benefit from the process I used to undo the nuts. I fabricated a lever to attach to the brake drum attachment studs as recommended to lock the pinion nut, worked a treat using a 32mm socket and a "Tommy Bar".

Bit scary after reading of all the broken half shafts, the LH side nut was not much tighter than finger tight. Have not pulled the shafts yet hope I dont find twisted splines.

I seem to recollect there is a fix to stop oil leaking through the bore of the Oil Seal Collar(Moss 266-030), appreciate some advice.
G Evans

G.E.
Not sure what you mean by oil getting through the collar? The wheel bearing is pressed onto the shaft after the beveled Spacer washer and is a really good tight fit. The collar is a slide fit on next and is supposed to be tight up against the bearing inner race. They tell you to tap it home in the WSM as there must be no gap between the bearing and this collar. If the surface of the collar is smooth and polished for the Oil Seal to run on. There should be no oil escaping past the split collar. When you bolt the hub or drum on to the collar to 150 Lbs./Ft it should not allow oil to leak through.
You could also check to make sure the axle is not over filled.
I just fitted new rear bearings and found it easier to heat the axel cap (266-380)in the oven at 350F for 10 mins and then they slid onto the bearing and axle end easily. Prior to heating, I could not get them to go on at all. I fitted the Oil seal into the end cap later - when they had cooled down.
Tape the 1/2 shaft splines before fitting the seal to protect the lip edge. Open side of the oil seal goes towards axle. Always oil the collar surface first when mounting the oil seal. So it does not run dry when first used.
Not sure what else to say - If your bearings are a loose fit to the 1/2 shaft or the collar is also loose - you need to replace some stuff. The newer 1/2 shafts are of better design and are of quality metal. A new bearing should be a Press fit to the 1/2 shaft. The collar should also be a good fit.
Rod



Rod Jones

Thanks Rod I think I got my wires crossed and should have waited until I had the leaking and noisy axle dismantled. I could not understand how my brake shoes were being contaminated by oil.

With the brake backing plate removed I could see no seepage past the seal however there was oil seepage at the bore of the Oil Seal Collar. The PO or someone has obviously replaced all bearings and seals in this diff as evidenced by the use of Silastic on assembly.

When I pulled the offending half shaft I found the bearing spacer badly scored and inserted back to front. As per your image the bearing mounting surface is showing damage.

There is no spline twist on either axle so I am going to fit up the bearing on the scored shaft using Loctite Bearing Mount and adhere to the WSM assembly instructions.

This TF must have had a chequed history, lots of $A thrown at it let down by poor workmanship.

Graeme
G Evans

This thread was discussed between 28/11/2014 and 29/11/2014

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