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MG TD TF 1500 - TF wire wheel spline grease

G/day all,
My TF had a lot of Grease on the wheel splines, I have now cleaned it all off but now not sure what type of lubricant to use on it, if any.

Regards

george
G Mills

I use copper based graphite anti seize. Brush it in the splines every 3 to 4 thousand miles. I don't put it on the rear tapers, I leave them dry and tighten the knockoffs securely, I've never had any issues doing it that way, but that's just me. PJ
Paul S Jennings

What are the rear tapers PJ, not up to speed with it all yet.

Regards


George
G Mills

I agree with PJ.. No grease on the rear mating surface. This is the angled part behind the splines. It's a friction surface and should not be greased. If you have a problem with corrosion, use a light oil just to keep the water away. As for grease, I think any general purpose grease will work. I just smear a thin bit of wheel bearing grease on them. It should be a heat resistant grease, something that will not separate when hot and run down the spokes.
Steve S

For what it is worth, I have read from good authority (Mike Allison, I believe), that Nuvolari's instructions to his mechanics, when racing for MG, was to wipe the splines completely clean and then add a smear of grease before easing the wheels back on, and tightening the spinners firmly.

I guess this removes all traces of dirt and metal scuffings, and then gives a thin layer of lubricant to allow the mating spline faces to lie close together, but not in direct rubbing contact.
Ian Bowers

Great advice again, I thank you all.

Regards

george
G Mills

Lan, You are perfectly correct, but under racing conditions only. Race car wheels are removed so frequently, a light lubricant is all that is needed, but under normal driving conditions where the cars encounter water, snow, icey conditions, dirt, road salts and has to endure a much longer period of time, a heaver grease type material should be used only on the splines. PJ
Paul S Jennings

I use a smear of LM grease, which appears to fill all the spaces, not flow out when the drums get hot and never a drop of water, or other contaminant enters. Each to his own approach.
Ian Bowers

All the comments above make good sense. I am adding this just in case someone has worn, clunky splines or is having trouble with grease running down their spokes.

If your rear wheels knock because of worn splines, use "Loctite 680" on the rear tapers (which have been well cleaned with thinners or similar). When tightening the knockoff, turn the wheel rearwards against the splines. Hammer the knockoffs on tight! Give the Loctite time to set before driving the car. Don't get Loctite anywhere but the rear taper! Wheels fitted in this way come off normally when required although once I had to kick the tyre to break the Loctite. Before refitting, scrape off old Loctite.

To stop grease running down the spokes, seal the spoke ends with silicon sealant after cleaning the area thoroughly. Do re grease the splines after the silicon has set.

I have scanned an article which was in the MG Car Club of South Australia magazine in about 1979 and again in 1988. It includes a diagram.

Bob Schapel

R L Schapel

With due respect, if your splines are worn and allowing the wheel to clunk then they should be replaced immediately, and most likely the hubs as well. Once a wheel begins to clunk upon acceleration and/or braking, wear and damage will increase exponentially and eventually there will be a spline failure. It normally happens during heavy braking, just at the time when you don't want a wheel spinning and flying off the car. And even if the wheel somehow stays on, you will have no brakes on that wheel so vehicle control and stopping ability will both be compromised. It happens too often. In fact I speak from personal experience!

Be safe!
Steve S

Yes, Agreed. The splines must be replaced WELL before they get that bad. However, if they are like most splines that are solid and serviceable but not perfect, they might knock a bit. The Loctite treatment will help prevent the knock and further wear.

Bob
R L Schapel

I have newer splines and hubs ( were new 8 yrs ago ) they have always knocked slightly on braking and acceleration since new. I will definitely try the 680 fix AND keep a closer eye on the splines for safety sake.
Thanks Bob,Cheers
K. McKenzie

Just as another thought.....

When I started to get a knock from the rear on hard braking and acceleration - it was not the splines on the hub that were worn! The 6 short studs that hold the hub to the brake drum also have splines and they had crushed down due to movement- possibly not torqued correctly in the first place. The Moss replacement studs are a tad different but work OK if pressed in carefully and secured with the thin nuts and tab washers. Do not attempt to pull them in with the nuts - they will stretch and brake. [Which is a little scarey when you think about it].
I could not reproduce this movement or knock with the wheel off the hub. Had me stumped for many months till I took the hub and drum apart. It then became very obvious. No more knock from the rear driver’s side wheel now

For the wheel splines I've always use a little of the copper anti-cease grease but keep the seating surfaces on the hub and the knock-off clean and dry.

Rod
R. D. Jones

This thread was discussed between 24/06/2014 and 27/06/2014

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