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MG TD TF 1500 - Thermostat Bypass Aperture

For a bunch of years I've been using an Arnolt heater with their bypass adapter. I've used my manually-operable heater valve to emulate the opening/closing of the bypass. Now I've decided to tap the other side of the water outlet for my source of better hot water. I'm using a modern thermostat http://www.ttalk.info/modern_thermostat.htm so after an archival study I've decided to install a 3/16" aperture in the bypass fitting. A couple of questions have arisen, so I've come to the well. Question #1 -- any suggestion about what material to use for the aperture? At the moment I'm inclined toward a thin (.025") sheet of copper. Question #2 -- should I use two bypass gaskets, one on each side of the aperture plate? Question #3 -- what sealant is suggested?
Similar question, different area - what sealant is suggested for application to the water pump, etc., screws that go into the water jacket? TIA. Bud
Bud Krueger

Anybody out there? Bud
Bud Krueger

Hi Bud Since I have the original type thermostat, I can't answer any questions about restrictions on the bypass side. However, I would use two thin gaskets in your proposed modification. I also prefer aviation type (Permatex)sealants which are non hardening and resistant to almost any liquid or temperature in the engine.
Jim Merz

I've used a piece of thick gasket material.
JRN JIM

I would not use copper. This could set up a corrosive couple and incite rust.
I think just plane steel would be fine and more compatible with the Cast Iron block.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

Bud, I did the same thing. Restricting by-pass. I punched a 3/16" hole in a piece of stainless steel .005 shim stock. Aviation type gasket sealant and only one gasket as the shim stock is thin and itself has acted like a gasket. No leaks. For sealing threads in block for water pump I am partial to teflon tape.

This worked for me.
CR Tyrell

This thread was discussed between 22/03/2014 and 24/03/2014

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