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MG TD TF 1500 - Threshold Plate, another fastener question

What was used to fasten the threshold plates? Nails or wood screws.
If wood screws what size and head?

Also how were they located?
Did they just come even with the gap between the front and rear quarter panels?

Picture attached shows an old original. I am just guessing at the placement.

Looking at the holes I am tempted to say they are countersunk but it could have been the heads on the fasteners.

The new ones are SS (Naturally)

Finally they seem to want to extend past the door opening into the door. I dont think this is correct.
I think I can pull them in without cutting. Is this important?

Thanks Jim B.

JA Benjamin

Ok! on Chris' site there is a pix that indicates oval Head screws.
Its cut off on the "B" pillar side so I don't know placement.

I will check my screw assortment for size and see what fits.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

Jim - The ones that were in our TD threshold plates were also oval head screws - very thin screws, a lot like what used to come with household thresholds - rather hard to find anymore. Cheers - Dave
D W DuBois

As was pointed by others shallow oval headed. I think they were #3 by 3/8" or 1/2"?

You should have small little holes in your door sills already to line them up. Perhaps they were filled with body filler or paint?
Christopher Couper

Hi Jim. The ones that I've seen that appear to be original on TD's are CS slot head wood screws, 7 in total as shown in your pic. Seems it has been replaced at some point as the rear appears to be too far out from the body. Domed or round heads would wear down so are almost certainly incorrect. It is possible Phillips heads were used on later cars as this trend is evident in a number of areas on later TD's & TF's, e.g. dash, windscreen pillars & perhaps the pedal box. Another point on originality is that The MG Car Company thresholds were originally only fitted to TA's (not sure about TB's & TC's) but they do seem to find their way onto later T types. The only pic I have is attached. It does show the relationship you were inquiring about. This is on a restored TD & is secured with either Phillips or Posidrive screws. The plate should be closer to, if not flush with the edge. Check out Chris Couper's gallery as there are probably pics of near original cars there. Cheers
Peter TD 5801

P Hehir

Thanks All.

I checked the archive, should have done that first, It appears the plates overlap the break between the front and rear Q-Panels enough to get two screws in.

It seem to be #4 oval head slotted screws. Although the heads need to be reduced in size.

I checked the #3 as suggested by Chris and they look to small.

I have some #4 oval slotted by 3/4 and I turned the head down to 3/16 and that seem to fit the old threshold plate just fine. Out of the box they are around 0.208.

I have a box of #4 by 1/2 coming tomorrow, so I will be machining heads.

The engine turned SS plates I have may be too thin to C'sink. I will try to dimple one, and C'sink the Q-pannel.


BTW the Threshold plates were Moss Cat#-SS1 prices at $6.75 for the pair, back in 1967

Chris; neither the front Q-panel nor the wood rail are original. They were long gone. So no holes to go by.


Jim B.
JA Benjamin

Here are mine. Looks like they were using flat wood screws on the day mine was built. TF9097.

Matthew.

M Magilton

Was the original plate plain or did it have printing on it? PJ
Paul S Jennings

plain

Frank Cronin

Yes Paul, as Frank noted, my original was plain.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

Frank: A closer view of one of your TF9052 pictures actually shows slight oval as Dave pointed out.

But then Matthews are flat. He must have gotten the cheap TF :-)

Funny thing about the MG woodscrews is that they always seem to have smaller heads than what is standard today. So I always get lured into a smaller size when I should be more concerned about the shaft than the head size. I ran into the same problem with the dash screws and ended up replating the originals because I could not find new screws that were correct.

JA probably has the right approach. Tailor the head for the job. Using stainless might be best then.

Christopher Couper

This thread was discussed between 21/12/2014 and 22/12/2014

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