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MG TD TF 1500 - Tips on removing my TF gearbox?

Any tips on the final steps to remove my TF gearbox with the engine in the chassis? Probably simple answers, but this is all new ground for me.

> My puzzlement is about how to separate the gearbox from the engine "taking care not to place any load on the drive gear shaft and clutch centre."
> And how to support the front of the gearbox while sliding it back enough to remove it through the cockpit
> Should I remove the shift remote control?

This thread in the archives gives a lot of information. Dave DuBois suggests replacing the two top bolts in the bellhousing with exhaust manifold bracket studs to help guide the gearbox back onto the engine. Would this also help in removing the gearbox? But of course I don't have the studs. Are the bolts metric? (I doubt it.)
http://www2.mg-cars.org.uk/cgi-bin/or17?runprog=mgbbs&access=&mode=archiveth&subject=8&subjectar=8&thread=20051004113701801

Here's what I've done -
+ put the car on jack stands under the frame and a-arm pivot
+ removed the steering wheel
+ removed the seats and floor boards
+ removed the gearbox cowl and the drive shaft tunnel
+ removed the drive shaft
+ disconnected the speedometer cable
+ disconnected the ground strap
+ disconnected the clutch operating lever
+ disconnected the throttle spring an supported the accelerator out of the way up under the dash
+ removed the floor board supports
+ removed the bolts from the rear mount to cross member
+ removed the inspection cover on the bellhousing - will use the hole as a hand hold
+ exhaust and breather pipe were not connected to the bellhousing
+ supported the rear of the engine with a scissor jack and board

I hope to coerce some club members into helping me this weekend. Looks like a two-man job + sidewalk supervision.

Thanks for your help. More questions to come as I get deeper into my project.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Hi Lonnie. Looks like you're ready to go. Leave the remote as is. I sat on a milk crate with a good grip on the gear change remote & my son on his back under the box to help support the weight as I pulled it away from the engine. I tried to ensure I pulled the box straight back without any up or down movement that could stress the mainshaft. A simple two man job. Maybe you could pass the box to the sidewalk supervisor just to make him feel needed. Takes about 30 seconds once the bolts are removed. Grab a piece of cardboard (from the obligatory beer carton) & push the bolts through as you remove them to record their locations. This ensures they go back where they came from. Check the manual to ensure the PO had them in the correct place & eyeball them for any sign of damage. The engine & bolt threads can be cleaned out with a tap & die if need be. It's an easy & straightforward task. You'll be fine. Enjoy the beer! Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

PS. The threads are fine metric.
P Hehir

PSS. You should drain the oil first so it doesn't go everywhere when you lift it out.
P Hehir

When you have undone all the bellhousing bolts you can sometimes split the unit from the block by stomping on the clutch pedal. I have done this alone but an extra pair of hands would be useful. Mind your back.

Matthew.

M Magilton

Lonnie, the threads are the ubiquitous M8x1 thread. The studs are sometimes handy, but are not unique. Just get a hold of some long'ish M8x1 bolts and grind the heads off. Screw them in where the top bolts (10:30 and 1:30) would normally be slide the gearbox back over them. Here's an image of using the studs. They'll provide enough support to handle the weight as you wiggle the gearbox. Bud

Bud Krueger

Lonnie - The studs are mainly for hanging the gearbox on while installing it, making it easier to get the first motion shaft in place. I don't know that they will help in removing the box (I never used them for removal). As Bud noted, the studs are 8 X 1mm. Moss should carry them. It is doubtful that you will find them at Lowe's or Home Depot as they are an obsolete size. Cheers - Dave
D W DuBois

Thanks guys. I'll order a couple of studs or long (headless) bolts from Moss before I reinstall the gearbox.

I asked some members of our MG club to give me a hand this weekend.

>> Will I need help removing the clutch and pressure plate? If so, I'll ask the members to help me while they are in my garage. Or, can I do it better by my self? I'll be replacing both plus a new release bearing.

The reason that I am removing the gearbox is to replace the rear case that has a broken mount. Hope that I will only need to remove the remote control and the gear selectors to do the swap.

Lonnie
TF7211

LM Cook

You should be able to handle it Lonnie. Note which way the driven plate is installed i.e. which face is to the flywheel. The WSM spells this out. Most people take the opportunity to replace the driven plate when the box is out as most of the cost/time in this task involves removing the box. Make sure you have a clutch aligning tool handy. Borrow an old mainshaft or the tool from someone in the club when you reassemble. I've had the box in & out a few times & have never had to use the studs. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

While you have the box out replace the spigot bush. Minimal cost involved and may save you some grief down the track.

Graeme
G Evans

Here's two photos on how I repaired a broken rear mount.

Regards
Declan

Before


D Burns

After


D Burns

Thanks again, everyone. I have only been inside one transmission in my life ... a TR3 in the '60s when I was 17 years old, so I'm a real dufus. You guys are giving me the confidence to charge ahead!

A club member will loan a clutch aligning tool to me.

I will install a new pressure plate (Moss 190-120), 8" clutch disk (Moss 190-140), rear mainshaft bearing and guard (Moss 125-900 and 441-180), rear case felt seal (Moss 121-300). Don't plan to remove anything except the rear case.

> PETER - Am I correct that the "clutch disk" is also the "driven plate"?

> GRAEME - What/where is the spigot bush?

> DECLAN - I previously saved your photos and photos of similar fixes by other BBS members. Your photos and description of the fix for a broken mount are good. I was going use them as a guide to fix my broken mount. However, a member of our club sold me a rear case with an intact mount. I've been driving my TF like a sissy for a year because the transmission was only sitting on the rubber mount and not secured to the cross member. Looking forward to my car being whole again.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Lonnie,
When you are refitting the rear end casing you have to be a bit careful with the felt seal. I install the felt seal in the casing and then push the gearbox output flange in twisting as you go and from the inside push the felt seal over the flange with a long drift so that it sits correctly and snugly inline with the bottom of the flange and is not distorted. When in position I fix a cable tie around the flange to stop it moving or sliding down into the casing. Then slide on the casing and flange as one unit.
Regards
Declan
D Burns

Lonnie,
While we are on the subject. I have attached a photo of the rear lip seal about three years ago. It works a treat-no leaks. If you are interested I can provide an engineering drawing or even the parts if you can't make it yourself or have it made.


Regards
Declan


D Burns

Declan, I repaired my rear motor mount the same way. Hope it holds up.

Bill
TD24570
Bill Brown

Hi Larry, You should have waited until after the Bok Tower tour Saturday, should be a beautiful day. We were there a couple weeks ago and the camellias were in full bloom with some early azaleas as well. Are you going without the TF? George
George Butz

See http://www.ttalk.info/gearbox_rear_seal.htm for Jeff Brown's approach for the seal. Bud
Bud Krueger

Hi George -

I know that the drive to Bok Tower in my TF would be great. Jo Ann and I may go in her BMW.

I couldn't put off repairing my transmission any longer because I work real slow and I'm finding more things to do as I go, so it will be a while before I'm back on the road.

Just gotta make sure that I am roadworthy by GOF-South April 17-19. I saw that you have already registered.
http://www.gofsouth.com/

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Declan and Bud - thanks the ttalk link and for offering plans and parts for your improved seal. I'm going to use the stock seal that I bought from Moss. No time nor skills to make the improved one.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

That's correct Lonnie. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Hi Lonnie

I just did this last summer. And it was much easier than I thought. May already have been discussed but I supported the engine with wood blocks. I used a small plant stand (Board on small casters) strapped a scissors jack to it and lifted the gearbox just slightly. Damn thing slid right out. I could lift it easily out thru the passenger door. I replaced the cluster gear. The whole episode was pretty simple and fun. And this was my first time.

Peter 54 TF
Peter Dahlquist

Hi everyone -

SUCCESS. Some members of our MG Club
http://www.classicmgclub.com/
came over today to help me remove the transmission from my TF.

20-minutes talking about how to do the job.
20-minutes removing it.
2-hours talking about cars.
Great day!!!

> Peter H. - The beer box did it's job ... I inserted the bolts into it in the order that they were removed from the bellhousing.

> Peter D. - I didn't have a roll-around plant stand, so we took off half of the handle of my 3-ton floor jack; placed it under the gearbox and pumped up under the drain plug; then rolled the gear box away from the engine.

I used my friend Will Bowden's suggestion to remove the inspection cover at the top of the bellhousing and used the hole as a handle.

I can't get the pressure plate off of the flywheel, but that's a subject for another post.

Thanks to everyone.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

This thread was discussed between 28/01/2015 and 01/02/2015

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