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MG TD TF 1500 - Using turnbuckle on door brace

Hi all,

I want to use a turnbuckle on the doors as referred to in the Archives. I intend using the existing diagonal cross brace by cutting out a part of the centre and attaching a turnbuckle in it's place.

Could someone explain how they did their 'attaching', since it's not clear from the Archive pictures I've seen. I'm happy to weld/braze if necessary.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Cheers,

John

J C Mitchell

I can't speak for others but I welded mine

MG LaVerne

I used vinyl coated cables.

I started with Rod style turnbuckles for a screen door, trimmed to size, but the cut threads were weaker than the rolled threads and they pulled out.

Dave Braun

I threaded some rod and then torch welded some flat stock to the ends

That way I have the originals if needed.

Jim B.

JA Benjamin

See http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/Door_fix.htm for how I did it. Bud
Bud Krueger

I cut the existing cross piece & welded in a turnbuckle.
Cheers
Peter TD 5801

P Hehir

I used eyed turn buckles and attached them with gutter bolts to builders steel bracing strip. Need to have the bolt heads on the upholstery panel side of the door.

Graeme
G Evans

Lots is pictures and solutions here by different owners. Question: if your doors do not fit tight enough against the body in the front at the bottom only, what direction does one fit the turnbuckle device? From the bottom front corner to the top rear corner or the opposite?
John Quilter (TD8986)

A turn buckle cut into the original strap will pull the bottom in and front up. The added "cross" strap with a turn buckle cut in will pull the top in and the bottom down. Having the two in place makes it easier to get where you want to be.
MG LaVerne

Agree with LaVerne. Just avoid having the turnbuckles on top of each other or there will be an ugly bulge in the door pocket.
Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

I cut the original brace and used a turnbuckle with eyes from the local hardware shop. I drilled 1/4" holes in the strap and used a large centre punch to form countersinks for screws. the turnbuckle is installed on the doorskin side using nyloc nuts and flat washers. I put a locknut on the RH thread of the turnbuckle but that is probably not necessary.

Max Irvine

Another image

Max Irvine

I cut the original brace, bent both of the ends 90 degrees drilled holes in each one & installed a 1/4" bolt & nut. Then adjusted as needed.
Len Fanelli

LaVerne,
Do both of your cross brackets have turnbuckles welded in so they are both adjustable?

Regards,
Mike
M Marini

John,
I used a totally different approach that I got from someone here on the BBS. I used two threaded rods with the adjustment hidden at the bottom of the door. This way the panels do not have to be removed to make adjustments from time to time. If you'd like more detail send me an e-mail. I believe I also posted the details a year or so ago.
Mort

Mort 50 TD (Mobius)

Yes they do Mike but it appears I don't have a picture showing it.
MG LaVerne

Mort, very clever solution. My issue, and it is not big one since I've lived with it for 30+ years, is the lip at the bottom of the front of the door is not as flush to the body as the top. There is no issue with the door sagging however and the door handle and latch mechanism all work fine.
John Quilter (TD8986)

Hi all,

Thanks for all the responses detailing the welding and non welding means of attachment.

Len Fanelli, do I take it that you just use a short threaded stud/bolt, with a nut behind each of the right angled lips? I've actually got two turnbuckles, but I like the simplicity of your solution.

Roughly how long is your bolt, is it around 1/4" diam.and did you need to reinforce the lips? The cross brace is made of quite thin metal, and I would have thought that the lips would tend to open out once tension is applied, unless perhaps a nut was used on both sides of the lip.

Cheers,

John

J C Mitchell

John Quilter,
I believe my solution and all the other turnbuckle solutions do not address sag as much as camber of the door. Sag is more of a hinge and sturdiness of the door and body.
In a situation that you described adjusting the appropriate turnbuckle on a two turnbuckle system will pull your front bottom closer to the body by actually bending the door.
I will post a series of photos to show what a small adjustment can do.
Mort

Mort 50 TD (Mobius)

this is after a small adjustment

Mort 50 TD (Mobius)

This is a photo of one of the two the Nylok(?) adjusting nuts taken in a mirror.
Mort

Mort 50 TD (Mobius)

This thread was discussed between 17/01/2014 and 18/01/2014

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