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MG TD TF 1500 - Walnut Shell Blasting Media ??

How good are walnut shells for removing paint from my panels without any damage? How good is soda blasting and what are the disadvantages if any? Glass beads? PJ
Paul S Jennings

I can't say on the walnut stuff but I know it's used. Soda was the rage when it first came out but it's no longer in favor due to the clean up needed to paint following it's use. Glass is very good for fine work or delicate parts but definatley not for full body panels...it would take forever.

I took all my TD sheet metal to a pro and he used copper slag.

For my little cheap home box I have used aluminum oxide, glass beads and have now settled into a product called Black Diamond...coal slag.

I think the newest craze is dry ice.
MG LaVerne

For my cabinet I have glass beads and walnut shells. The walnut shells are good for cleaning up pot metal parts and the glass for small painted stuff. I've heard of the coal slag and dry ice method but don't know anyone that's had it used on their stuff. My concern, as everyone else's is warping. I have panels I want blasted, but have to do some checking on a professional co to do the work within driving distance. Probably going to be 60 miles away in Tulsa. PJ
Paul S Jennings

I had my tub done with plastic media. In my cabinet I use glass beads.

The guy I use does lots of cars so he knows not to stay in one place too long. He'll do the whole body with plastic then carefully hit the rust spots with a heavy sand type media. Plastic will only remove paint, not rust.

I use coal slag (Black Beauty) in my pressure blaster - just out in the field. It seems to disappear into the soil just fine.
JE Carroll

The biggest issue is someone who knows what they are doing Paul. The fellow I took my TD stuff to convinced my right away to stay away from the soda, but he would have used it if I had insisted. He's a car guy to but his main business is blasting heavy equipment. He said he would do the panels himself because he knew how to handle the job without doing any damage. The results were very worthwhile ..no wraping..just clean metal. Just took him the TC wheels yesterday to clean up.

MG LaVerne

I have used soda with good results. You have to wash the parts really well afterword. I have also used a wire brush on an angle grinder.
-David
D. Sander

Walnut shells are great for paint removal and leave a surface as smooth as a baby's bottom.
Jim Neel 53TD28423

I used at least 4 different products. You just have to try them and see what works for you. Depends a lot on your equipment and the stuff you want to remove. Start light (walnut) and work up in grits. You'll learn real quick! For example, I tried Black Beauty mentioned above and it was a total failure. My pot blaster just couldn't handle it. But play sand was no problem if it's dry. Walnut on the frame, no way. Etc.
Archives are full of stuff on this topic. I got a lot of help here a few years back.
efh Haskell

If your doing it at home... don't forget you can chemically strip the parts with paint stripper from the hardware store. You can get a lot done in a short time with out all the transporting of parts. Then just sandblast the rusty stuff after.

C.R. Tyrell

The biggest advantages to soda, are 1. No rust ...Panels can sit indefinitely , until ready to paint.
2.No destruction of the metal, if done by a pro....
The biggest single disadvantage, is having to clean the panel with vinegar, and then washing with soap and water....
If you go with any media, you will need to thoroughly clean the panel before paint....
Any fine media will find its way into cracks and crevices, and must be cleaned out....
Here's some before and after shots of soda blasting...The blaster came to my home, and had the machine mounted on a trailer.
Edward

Edward Wesson 60MGA

Here's an after shot:

Edward Wesson 60MGA

And for parts that are all steel Fenders/front/rear pans, etc.

A simple lye dip tank really works well

NOTE. I take no responsibility for using this process. Use at your own risk. DO NOT USE ON ANY PARTS WITH BRASS OR ALUMINUM on them, They will dissolve.

I use a 50 gallon drum set on bricks with a coleman stove under it. I use drain cleaner that is 100% lye. Typically 8 cans per 50 gallons works for me.

Most of the large parts have to be tuned over to get all surfaces in the tank and you have to be careful not to splash your skin, use goggles/faceshield and heavy gloves. Also, always add Lye to water and do it slowly. it can react vigorously when you are adding it. Do this outside as it can also create some nasty fumes.

This is how the old engine dunk tanks that the machine shops used to use worked. It will clean metal and leave you with just clean metal.

Nice thing is when you are done, you can neutralize the lye with any acid - I use vinegar and a ph test strip to bring it back to neutral. At that point it can be safety disposed of. I filter it to remove the paint residue.


Bruce Cunha

Finished car:


Edward Wesson 60MGA

The pros locally use crushed glass (recycled bottles) for ferrous metals and seed for non ferrous metals.

I just had a fire wall out of a Land Rover done excellent result no pitting and the operator applied a primer coat on completion.

The TF I have restored had been sand blasted, what a mess I lost count of the number of coats of undercoat to fill the pit marks.


Graeme
G Evans

I am helping a friend in restoration of a TD. Body tub and sheet metal parts (disassembled) were dry ice blasted by a pro. I was very impressed. There was no clean up. Ice goes directly from solid to gaseous state. no residue. Wood parts remained dry. Just blow away the dirt and paint residue. It does NOT remove rust however. This was a car with almost no rust. Owner chose ice over other methods because of ease of cleanup and convenience. Operator brought his truck mounted unit to the parts. Blasted stuff on the parking lot.
L.A. Leclerc

Edward,
Who did your blasting, I have been talking to Nutech in Jefferson, Ga?
Jim
J G Ratliff

Couldn't resist jumping into this one.

I have the frame of my '34 PA ready to clean. I bought a Harbor Freight 20 gallon blaster, but this thread has opened my thinking. I may be better of having it done professionally.

But its the dry ice blasting that caught my eye. I found this very interesting application, where an Alfa had been ice-blasted without dismantling the car. Have a look ... http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/car-restoration/8094-dry-ice-blasting-remove-undercoating.html. From what I see, this bodes well for this technology.

But I need to know something about costs. Has any one had their frame done? If so, how much? I might even consider buying one of these little gizmos. Does anybody have any idea how much one costs. Seems to be a variety of sizes, including a few small, DIY kind.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.

Gordon A Clark

I contacted a firm in Tulsa,OK and was informed they use a black media for sheet metal. They have a good reputation seeing how it's not unusual for them to do a 100G car, which one was a Duesenberg. The guy wasn't clear what the black media was. Anyone know what he's talking about? He said that's all they use on antique cars. There's a Jag on the floor now. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Most likely the coal I have. Black diamond...Black Beauty.
MG LaVerne

Thanks LaVerne, I thought that's what it might be, as I remember you mentioning it once before. PJ
Paul S Jennings

This thread was discussed between 01/02/2014 and 04/02/2014

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