MG-Cars.info

Welcome to our Site for MG, Triumph and Austin-Healey Car Information.

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - Water Temp Sender

I am preparing to install my new water temp sender. It appears to me that it will not seal effectively. There doesn't appear to be a seal between the probe and the radiator adaptor nor between the attaching nut and the probe. What is the correct installation method?

Second issue...how do it install the adaptor to the radiator? I don't know how to tighten it without damaging the exposed threads in the process.

Thx.

Corey Pedersen 1951 TD #7169

That appears to be a pipe nipple from the big box store. You need to order the correct male/male adaptor from Moss or Abingdon. George
George Butz

But how does he install it at this point? The correct threaded ferrule needs to be on the tube before its attached to the sensor.

If Bud or someone else does not give you and easy way to disconnect and reassemble the sensor end I would send the whole assembly back to who you got it from and have them put the correct part on for you. They need to learn from their mistake too.
Chris Couper

I'd like to see what the fitting on the radiator looks like. The nut on his sender may be the right one. But, the male threaded piece on the radiator has to have an internal stop for the bulb. Bud
Bud Krueger

My car had no temp gauge. I purchased a temp/oil gauge from mgheathrow to ugpgrade the car. I received the car with the adaptor shown and a blanking plug.

George/Bud, I will purchase Moss adaptor 361-060. In regard to my original question, is any seal or sealant required?
Corey Pedersen 1951 TD #7169

Corey, you say "with the adaptor shown" and a blanking plug. Are you referring to that short nipple as the adapter? Was there a washer on the blanking plug so that it screwed all the in to seal? Bud
Bud Krueger

Corey,

After you resolve e questions about if it is the correct part, you may want to consider a threas sealant. Locktite has a series used to seal for water and can be temp ratied. They are used in modern cars to help seal water and other connectors.

Looking on the web.. Try 565 or 561.

There are other brands out there, so just an option. They semi harden, but allow for disassembly. Helpful where threads are not perfect.
Dean E

Don't know about sealant. Chris, I have seen gauge bulbs with both female and male nuts. Moss supplies adaptors for both. George
George Butz

Bud, no, the car was equipped only with the nipple and a brass cap. I don't recall if there was any teflon tape on the parts when I disassembled them.
Corey Pedersen 1951 TD #7169

Corey, I think you should contact the seller and see if they have a radiator adapter that might work with the nut that they have on your cable. I seem to recall that another member had a similar problem with a temperature gauge from the 'motherland'. Bud
Bud Krueger


I have an earlier TD without a temperature gage. I have purchased a combination one on eBay. The end on mine is different and I believe correct, although other ends are possible.

The threads are BSPS

There are two British Standard Pipe threads. One is tapered (BSPT) one is straight (BSPS). MG used a lot of BSPS.

The end on mine is straight.

There is an adapter in my radiator. I believe it is also BSPS. It has a sealing washer under it. A tapered thread sould not have such a washer.

The adapter is correct for my temperature gage.
(see the attached picture)

There may be an adapter for your gage.
The adapter in my radiator is a male end (in the radiator) to a female end.

The adapeter, between the radialto and the temperature gage, you show is a tapered thread. I doubt that it should be used on your radiator. I would not attempt to use it.

There is a copper sealing washer that is placed between the flange on the bulb and the radiator adapter. The pipe fitting screws on the flange of the bulb which uses the washer to seal.

I would think there would be a different adapter for your radiator.
One that would have a male end in the radiator (with a hex sealing aginst the radiator with a sealing washer) and a male end that that the bulb goes into. There would be a sealing washer under the flange on the bulb and your femail end will push against the flange on the bulb.

Check Abingdon and Moss for a proper adapter

Jim B

JA Benjamin

Jim B's is correct. The brass reducing ferrule (first picture) goes into the radiator tank with a red fiber washer. The smaller steel ferrule (second picture) is on the capillary line and was needed to be installed before the sensor was attached.

I have never needed any sealer on either place.

I have no idea how you remove the capillary tube from the sensor to install the steel ferrule but the person who sold you the unit should have provided it that way in my opinion. It is a complete unit.
Chris Couper

When I fitted a Smiths dual gauge to my Morris Minor I used an adapter to connect to an aftermarket thermostat housing cover. Would this part solve your issue?

http://store01.prostores.com/servlet/jetmotors/the-Engine/Categories

John Quilter (TD8986)

Good day all:

I have just gone through a spot of bother, on TD3191, regarding not being able to tighten the nut holding the ether bulb in place in the radiator tank. (an opposite method to your set up Mr. Benjamin). This failure allowed some fore and aft play, for the tube, between the stub end and the inner nut surface.

I have replaced the rusted out ferrous iron threaded stud with the brass set up as shewn below.

I do not recall any fibre or other material washer being employed. The old stem had been so heavily soldered I had to file off copious amounts to get to the tank surface.

Also, there was so much solder within the circumference of the tank hole, and it had flowed quite thickly inside as well. I used the brass replacement adaptor as a tap, cutting threads into the solder (silver) to set it in place. I also lathered good old aircraft form-a-gasket between the tank and the adaptor and so far no leakage has been encountered. This jury-rig will do for now, but a soldering of the adaptor will also become necessary.

I must take care not to repeat the previous folly by over doing the solder. This error had lessened the external threaded length of the old iron bit and was the cause preventing the nut to be tightened fully home.

Looking at the photograph, the threaded portion on the right, shorter of the two, was fitted into the tank, whilst the longer segment, on the left, totally accepted the compression nut.

Right then, that's my story and I'm sticking to it !

Cheers all; respectfully:
Jack Emdall, TC6768/TD3191. Halfmoon Bay, British Columbia, Canada

kernow

I think I simply need to obtain Moss item 361-060, as I noted above. I presume it is similar to the adaptor shown in Jacks posting.

Corey Pedersen 1951 TD #7169

This thread was discussed between 08/10/2013 and 09/10/2013

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archives. Join this live forum now