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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - Windshild Frame and Mount

Mounted the frame without the glass in it yet to see how everything fits. I have a question about spacers or such that I might be missing. Look at the second photo and tell me what I'm missing as it doesn't look right. PJ



Paul S Jennings

2nd Pic. Looks like a spacer/washer is missing.



Paul S Jennings

Sorry about the spelling, but this computers keyboard is flakey as it misses keystrokes all the time. New keyboard ordered! Grin. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Don't know about TFs but on the TD there is a nut (and, I think, a concave washer) between the stanchion (sp?) and the cap nut on the pivot stud. I think the cap nut is just to cover the threaded end of the stud and be shiny. Jud
J K Chapin

Jud, I have the concave washer/spacers on the top stud, but the bottom stud has a gap between the mount and the frame, plus the chrome nut won't screw down far enough to touch the mount. It seems I've seen some type of spacer in there on another car. Been a while, but this is where the curiosity comes in. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Look at item 102 & 103 in the Moss diagram. It doesn't show if they go inside or outside of the mount. I just ordered a set. PJ



Paul S Jennings

Paul,
All the spacers/washers for the TF windscreen brackets go on the outside of the bracket. If you have a space between the bracket and windscreen frame, you might want to loosen and reposition the brackets on both sides of the car (there is a little play in the positioning) and see if that does it. If it doesn't, maybe brass spacers? I know a TF owner here who had his brackets heated and reformed (then rechromed)to close up a big gap. Your gap looks like spacers will do it.

Good luck,
Tyler
Tyler Irwin

Much more serious problem with this car.... It's parked in the wrong garage.

I'll send you my address so this can be corrected. Signing the title over to me would be a HUGE step towards rectifying this incredible oversight.

Tomorrow's my birthday, so if you could get on this really quickly I'd feel so much better about this whole ugly matter....

Thanks.

...
MAndrus

Paul: Your perfection is showing. This is how it is. Don't worry about the gap.
Christopher Couper

Paul,

Have tried loosing up the stanchion bolts then pulling things together.



Dan Nordstrom

Moving the stanchions is virtually impossible do to the tightness of the bolt holes. I will give it a try though, but don't have high hopes they will move much, if any. I'll also get some brass washers, hopefully thicker ones and give that a try if the stanchions won't move. Thanks for the input. PJ

Oh Chris, I put the original recessed Auster badge back on. Used new rivets, but left the old badge as it came off the car. Tried to clean it up some but didn't want the original color to come off so I stopped. PJ

Paul S Jennings

I'm with the guys to loosen the stanchions up and then snug it down. I think the inner washer/spacer 103 had a shaped internal so it won't rotate on the stud, and the outer 102 is a thin lock nut. You cinch the pivot down with the inner nut, then lock the dome nut to that to maintain proper pivot tension. The gap between the stanchion and frame has to be closed or the frame will just rattle around, etc. Car looking so good, and I need a new keyboard too...George
George Butz

Thanks George, I'll see what I can do to move the stanchions in a bit. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Nice to see another original Auster badge. I wondered about the original (non existent) colour on mine as the repros on Ebay have a red "Auster" but are black at either end. Were they all red like PJ's or red & black like the repros? I've polished up my badge & would like to now infill the red (or red/& black) using the toothpick method that worked so well on the hubcap badge. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Peter, Chris told me that the original badges were recessed slightly where their painted on the ends, mine is recessed so I'm thinking it's an original. When I removed it initially, you could see it had never been removed from the frame. A close look shows it has never been touched up, so I'm assuming the Red ends are original. But that's only an assumption. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Paul,
If you want chrome rather then brass washers try your locale Harley dealer. They have different sizes and thickness also.

But do bring you check book, if you think Moss is expensive!

Oh and what a butifull looking car, you are doing a great job.
G D

The stanchions won't move due to the tightness of the holes through the wood. I've decided to remove everything, ream the holes slightly oversize so the bolts will have a little play. As tight as these bolts are, I should have done that long ago when this thing was in pieces, but hindsight IS 20/20! Haven't figured out what foresight is. Grin. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Paul: Is the Auster recessed too or just the end panels? From an earlier picture you gave me it looked like the Auster was slightly recessed but the panels more so.

And you did put it on the inside too. Correct?

It may be the MGA and later had the black panels and maybe not even recessed. I saw one on an MGA and it looked old.
Christopher Couper

Auster, Birmingham & end panels all recessed on mine. Tried to take a pic but the flash just washes the detail out. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Chris, The bottom bar is on backwards and has to be turned around. Didn't think about it until it was on the car. I also need to put the correct bottom screws in before the glass, the countersunk screws with three threads. I knew this when I assembled the frame, the wrong screws were in it, but everything will be correct before the glass goes in.
Oh yes, the Auster name is recessed as the end panels.
Odd, well maybe not, they changed the badge colors on the MGA.
Paul S Jennings

Would you like for me to send you pix of the original details. Our windscreen has never be apart.
Let me know what you want.
colin stafford

Colin, Thanks for the offer but all's well. It's all coming together finally. Have to take the old glass to a glass business and have a new one cut. Don't have time now so that will be next week sometime. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Colin and Peter: Are you end panels black or red?
Christopher Couper

Chris I've examined mine with a torch (flashlight) & magnifying glass & there does seem to be tiny traces of red in the recesses of Auster, Birmingham & also the end panels. I used a Humbrol paint on the hubcap badges & intend to use the same red here. Apply with a toothpick, allow to partially dry & remove the excess by dragging a matchstick across the surface. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Well I loosened all the bolts and got very little movement on the stanchions, but, there was just enough to let them and the frame to come together. Thanks for all the tips! Have to order the new glass next week and I can get the windshield done and mounted. PJ
Paul S Jennings

PJ make sure your logo is correct. The ones on the laminated glass screens supplied here carry a 1960 logo! Lew Palmer has the correct kit for your car's original screen. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Used the technique I mentioned above on the Auster badge & she now has Humbrol red recesses. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

If you look at my badge closely, you will see all the color is red. It's evident that it has never been touched, reason I left it that way. Actually, it's the only untouched original piece with it's original paint on the car. Quite nice, I think! PJ
Paul S Jennings

Windshields back together with new glass. Bottom bar turned around so Auster badge faces rearward. New D washer and nut, which was missing from mine installed. Glad that's over! PJ


Paul S Jennings

I just got my windscreen frame, stanchions and wiper link back from the plater's shop. He did a nice job and the turn around was 4 days. Cost was 230€ but that also included two window surrounds for my Morris Minor.
Regards
Declan
D Burns

PJ. A few questions about you windscreen. How thick was the rubber you used, did you have to use any kind of clamp or lubricant to assemble it & is there a logo on your glass? Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Paul: Let me be the first to upset you. The D washer and nut are not chrome but just brass.
Christopher Couper

Hi Peter,

If you are about to assemble your windscreen consider setting the glass in black silicone sealant rather than a rubber gasket. Using the latter is a terrible job requiring long clamps and many hands. I have glazed screens with silicon for my TD, M Type and the TF twice! - we have grandchildren that play with golf balls.


Jan T
J Targosz

Peter, There is no logo on the glass, plain safety glass from the glass shop. The glass is set in the rubber from Moss and I used a very thin solution of water and a couple drops of Dawn dish detergent applied with an artist brush in the rubber, which I folded in half, inserted dry in the channel, then applied the solution inside the rubber. No clamps, just patience. Grin. Took a couple hrs.

Chris, They look pretty though! LOL. PJ
Paul S Jennings

I junked the idea of using the rubber as I could see there was no way I'd get it in without possibly breaking the glass, which I had cut & shaped to ensure the best possible fit. I rejected the first 2 screens as the glaziers managed to scratch the glass both times! I then tried black polyurethane but wasn't happy with the result as the packing was visible through the glass. At this point I pulled it apart again & painted the edge of the glass black. (See pic showing top rail cutouts & painted edge). I sourced a thinner rubber from Clarke Rubber but it's just a little loose in places so I'll finish it off with a final bead of windscreen sealant (or black silicon). I plan to mask off the glass & frame, apply the goop & finish with a stiff plastic card, cut at about 100 degrees to the glass, using plenty of soapy water. The glass will be packed in the couple of loose areas on the inside making sure it's pushed up firmly against the rubber on the outside, then the goop applied. This will ensure a uniform gap on the most visible side of the screen. When dry I'll remove the packing & do the inside. Any other suggestions gratefully received. Cheers
Peter TD 5801

P Hehir

I used the standard rubber packing and lubed it up a bit with WD40. I also waited about a week for the gasket to dry out so it would not move. None the less there are still places where the rubber sucked in. :-(

The best results I have ever had here was a rubber/cork based tape that was sticky on one side. It had the same thickness as the original rubber but would not slip after it was installed and trimmed.

I would use that again. For now I may have to follow up with some black RTV silicone sealer in those places the gasket sucked in on.
Christopher Couper

Windscreen is now sorted. Fully assembled & looks great. No gap between the frame & stanchions. Used a black polyurethane with a plastic applicator made from an ice cream container in conjunction with the thinner windscreen rubber from Clarke Rubber. Painting the edge of the glass black has made a big difference to the overall look & I'd definitely recommend this. Tape & soapy water didn't help so just used the applicator to finish it off & cleaned up later with a steel backed blade.

However I am now chasing the correct two screws for the top of the stanchion & the two oddly shaped scuttle spacers below. My Feb 1951 TD has the early oval chrome slot heads that secure the stanchion to the scuttle & I assume the two screws I'm looking for also had slot heads. These two are smaller than the other six oval heads & are not interchangeable. 2 BA pan heads fit in the concave recess reasonably well & I can probably mess with some rod or a couple of nuts to create the scuttle spacer profile. Moss only supply Phillips heads in kits, which are incorrect for early TD's. I'm expecting a reply from FTFU but if anybody else can steer me in the right direction it would be much appreciated. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

This thread was discussed between 05/03/2015 and 20/03/2015

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