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MG TD TF 1500 - Wiper Motor Installation
Anybody know how the motor was originally installed? I know it sits upside down but how many blocks are used? Can the block at the motor be ground down slightly so it fits into the space available between the top & front of the frame? Is this desirable or necessary, as it won't fit without modification? My original NOS LUCAS CWX motor, which was still in the box, came with three mounting blocks. A pic from above would be great or even one looking along the frame. This would show how far the motor itself sits away from the frame. I'll also need to cut the spindle & the two threaded rods down. The original LUCAS fitting instructions in the box suggest cutting the threads flush with the nuts but I've seen many approaches with hardly any to about 5 threads exposed. LUCAS suggest about 1 1/4" of spindle should protrude from the frame. The NOS motor is complete with the original cork washers etc (see pic). I won't be using the four knurled jobbies or the black stop piece, nor the cable. The jury is out on the front cork washer retainer. The one in the box is black, the one from AS is chromed & the only one I could see in CC's barn find gallery was also black. Had a look in the archive but can't find the answers there. I'm only interested in duplicating the Abingdon installation method, using the original components. Cheers Peter TD 5801 ![]() |
P Hehir |
Peter. I ground mine down to fit looks OK to me and now fits into the frame where I believe it should be. John |
John Walton |
Peter, Here is a picture of the NOS motor that came with my car. I am not 100% sure it is correct but the shaft and mounting hardware looks to be shorter. ![]() |
Rich (TD 3983) Taylor |
Rich, yes they are different in that respect. According to the installation instructions my motor supersedes the original. The end plate shows mine was made in October 1952. These things were made for a number of cars which explains the additional bits in the box & that they need to be cut to length. Further examination reveals that the block closest to my motor is not symmetrical, (the spindle & the threaded rods are not centered on the longitudinal axis), so if I can figure out how to remove it & then rotate it 180 degrees I believe it will then clear the top of the frame & sit where it should. Seems Lew Palmer is the go to guy on this one so I'll email him & see what he thinks. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
My wiper (Sept 51) assembly does not have long blocks either, it looks like Rich's, with a single block and two rubber pieces for cushioning. As you say, they were used for a variety of cars and came with a confusing amount of mounting pieces. And definitely Lew is the expert here... |
Geoffrey M Baker |
Peter I'm sorry I was at the shop yesterday and forgot the pic. Mine has TWo spacer blocks behind the windshield frame to space the motor away and not bind the shaft on the frame. motor is placed upside down for hood clearance |
W. A. Chasser Jr |
On a TD or TF, use only enough mounting blocks to allow the motor to clear the top windscreen rail as it extends to the rear. In other words, about 1/2 inch of thickness. The photo posted by Rich is correct and all the parts shown should be used. Especially the cork/rubber/felt pieces, as these are what will keep water out of your motor. |
LD Palmer |
My TD came to me with the motor upside down (Lucas right side up) I removed the motor, reversed the block and it fit against the wind screen frame perfectly. Jud |
J K Chapin |
Peter, see the end of this thread: http://www2.mg-cars.org.uk/cgi-bin/or17?runprog=mgbbs&access=&mode=archiveth&subject=8&subjectar=8&thread=201212110121393184 Jud |
J K Chapin |
Thanks Jud. I tried the double nut approach before I contacted Lew but with no luck. Even tried a triple nut & still no joy. Will use some RP7 & some circlip pliers on the buried nuts & see if that works. Your thread & Lew's advice confirm the solution is to rotate the block. Thanks guys. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Peter rotating the block didn't work for me hence I had to grind about 1/32" off it to fit. I noticed the nuts on Rich's are different from yours as they are from mine. John |
John Walton |
Thanks John. If all else fails then grinding is the fall back position. (PS. You coming on the run on the 22nd?) Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Sorry Peter, We will be down the south coast at that time for I need to attend to some property matters. Thanks for reminding me. John |
John Walton |
I was able to successfully rotate the spacer block & the motor fits perfectly. I used the tang of an old chisel bent into the shape of a hook to undo & remove the recessed nuts. See pics showing the motor in situ & the tool. Cheers Peter TD 5801 ![]() |
P Hehir |
Pic showing the bent chisel tang.
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P Hehir |
This thread was discussed between 10/02/2015 and 11/02/2015
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