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MG TD TF 1500 - XPEG crankshaft reconditioning

Hi Guys
It appears the crankshaft for my TF XPEG engine could be ok. Does anyone know if these cranks can be reground. It looks like polishing won't be enough to take out all the scoring.
Thanks Darryl

D Lamb

Have it properly crack tested first. If OK there is no reason why not.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Agreed...have it cracked tested!!
Bob Dougherty

Before you get it crack tested you need to know what size the journals are now. It is no use getting it crack tested if it undersized. After 60 years it may have been ground a few times already. The bearing shells may have the size etched on rear face so have a look there.
Max Irvine

Thanks guys the reason I am questioning this is because the workshop manual mentions that the XPEG crankshaft cannot be reground and should be exchanged for a new one. My XPEG crank has never been reground.

D Lamb

My understanding is the XPEG crank is Nitrided, that's a surface hardening a few thousands deep. My airplane crankshaft is Nitrided and I have had it reground and the shop renitided the shaft. Perhaps an aviation shop could do that on an XPEG crank. My concern would be if grinding went through the hardening some places on the journal and not others. How would that affect wear?
Dave Rezin
DL Rezin

http://www.iot.ntnu.no/users/oddk/mg3/downloads/XPAGEngine.pdf


is a good old read, page 21 is the cranks desciption, and the authors language is a treat.
mog

The WSM does say to exchange the crank for a new one rather than have it reground, That may have been fine back in the day when new original cranks were readily available and didn't cost the earth, but now things are a little different. The chances of finding an original crank that's uncracked and never been ground are nil. If you want a new crank you need to shell out around £1500 or more for a modern type machined from a billet. Or take the choice that I believe many have done, ignore the WSM and have it crack tested and ground. Unless its been done 3 or 4 times before, in which case I wouldn't. But then you might actually stand a chance of finding a better one.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Suggest checking casting number as well. I have a twin to the 22528 crank also in my attic junk pile. This crank was in my car when bought in the early 70s. Note "1947" is stamped just above the part number, so must have come from a TC or something. George

George Butz

Thanks for all the useful information guys. General consensus is that the XPEG should take a couple of grinds and as mine hasn't been previously ground I should be ok as long as it's not cracked! MOG that pdf is a great read and will prove very useful. Particulary enjoy his use of language...
D Lamb

Ditto on the MOG post. I haven't read it all but I now know the answer to a couple of vexing questions like where do the 4 (!) types of sump bolts go? I've added it to my collection of pics & info in my MG Engine file. Pre computer typewriter font & the language is also clearly from another time. Thanks Mog. Great post. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Peter, see http://www.ttalk.info/Fasteners-For-XPAG-XPEG-Engines.htm for engine info from David DuBois. Bud
Bud Krueger

I've checked out the sump bolts on the site mentioned above (the same table is also shown on CC's site) however it doesn't provide the detail that Mog's article does. The article shows that there are 14 sump bolts of 3 different types, with original part numbers, (4 if you count the sump to gearbox bolts) with a description of each bolt & indicates on 2 sketches exactly where each one should go. I've never seen this level of detail before. My bolts were all over the place. Now thanks to the work of Mr W.K.F. Wood in 1968, I'm able to put them back where they belong. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

This thread was discussed between 18/02/2015 and 20/02/2015

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