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Triumph TR3 - 1959 TR3A Top

I recently purchased a new top for this car, Moss 640-040. There seems to be no instructions with the kit. I guess this is standard. How does one handle the flap at the windshield/front of the top? One Triumph website internet writeup claims that it is folded forward to the front edge of the top and the Tenax fastener is forced through all of that material which is very thick, and very difficult to do, but not impossible. Is this correct? I suppose this is old stuff, maybe in an FAQ. I would appreciate any insight anyone might have.

thanks
Howard
Howard Petri

I bought mine from Roadster Factory in 1989. I couldn't figure it out. I called them and they explained it all to me. It was still all confusion. I called them again and asked for sketches. Now it's OK.

Go back and ask Moss. Maybe the one you got is not like mine. You don't want to cut it and find out that's not the thing to do.

Don Elliott, original owner, 1958 TR3A
Don Elliott

Howard, it ain't fun, but it can be done. Something to think about before installation is the length of the webbing for the top frame. My first top install was not as good as it would have been with the frame adjusted better. TerriAnn's website (search for TR3 and Terrianne (sp?)and you'll find a lot of detail stuff about her TR3 restoration) includes the height of the top frame and other useful things. The front fasteners only need a hole, the rears work better if you cut for the "teeth" too. I think I put the flap facing the rear of the windscreen, but it's been a long time. I used a sharp exacto knife to make the holes, a punch would have been nice. The scissors on a swiss army knife are handy, a fingernail scissors might be better. There might be a tool to do the "lift the dot" press, I don't know. A vicegrip with smooth ended jaws was useful. I have read that chalk makes a good marker for the bump you make in the top material when you're trial fitting. Measure both sides so the top doesn't sit cock-eyed. The next one you do will look better. It's an upper body workout, like any upholstery job. Tug, pull, hold. Three hands would be nice.

Don's advice is always good.
Tom

Thanks for the comments. I have done the front with the flap tucked underneath. There is a North Carolina club with a TR3 web site and a top installation write up on it's BBS that claims one tucks the flap forward. But I don't really understand the function of the flap. I have done it this way and I have managed to put the Tenax fasteners through that double thickness of material. The rear Lift the Dots are going in easily. I have 6 of the 12 of those done. I found the Terri-Ann site and read her comments about webbing. I duplicated my old lengths which seem to be close. I just don't understand that flap.

thanks
Howard
Howard Petri

Hell, if you don't like it one way, turn it the other! I'm glad you had a decent top frame to work from, tell us how it comes out.
Tom

I have it done and it works. I connect all the snaps front and back and then pull the bows up. It's hard to believe that the top will stretch when you put the bows up but it does. The flap is doubled up under the front edge as I said. I've written Moss an email and guess I'll find out how they do it when they write back monday.
Howard
Howard Petri

My "hood" has the flap tucked back underneath as well. Perhaps this is for strength and/or weather tightness?
I never use mine.
Glad to see you're back at your keyboad, Don. Hope you're feeling better.
Mike
Mike G.

OK, here's what Moss says. They claim the flap is folded under in the forward direction. It is NOT attached to the front of the top but small holes are punched into it so that it fits over the pegs on the windshield frame. The Tenax fasteners are then fitted to the top front edge. The flap is set over the peg and the top with the Tenax snaps down over it. This is supposed to help seal the front better. I guess I'll just remove the flap from under the Tenax and I'll have it right although I could have had a smaller hole in the flap than I have now.

Howard
Howard Petri

Thanks for following through on this. It makes sense. What good would that edging be on the inside? I'll have to try that little foldback trick if I ever get around to it.
Tom

Hi Guys:
I attached my top (hood)as described to Howard by Moss.However I found that small holes won't do because the thickness of the flap just about equals the height of the pegs.I cut the holes almost to the edge of the rectangular pressings on the flap(as per my original top).This makes it much easier to close the tenax fasteners.
Chuck

This thread was discussed between 13/11/2004 and 18/11/2004

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