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Triumph TR6 - Oil Pressure & Oil Filter Q's
1. I have read posts from those who have changed from 20w50 to a thinner oil blend to reduce oil pressure. My oil pressure with Castrol 20-50 plus 1 litre of Lucas Oil Additive is between 60 and 75 psi if the gauge is accurate. It lowers when the engine warms up. Why is high oil pressure a concern?
2. Many have switched from the OE side mount oil filter cartridge & canister to the spin-on type. I saw this as a convenience but nothing else. However, an aquaintance suggested that our OE side mount canister drains itself into the reservoir when the engine is stopped and hence on start up it takes several seconds for oil to get pumped to the upper cylinder area. A spin on stays full and pumps immediately on start-up. Is this a valid reason for switching to a spin-on? I've also heard that our oil pumps don't pump much of anything under 2000 RPM. I hope that's not correct!
Your knowledge & experience is always welcome here.
Was your engine totally rebuilt ? I don't think they did your main bearings etc if they claim it was otherwise you'd have more pressure. I replaced mine 4 yrs ago and when it starts up cold pressure is 90 and 50-70 when warm, lower when hot weather is around.
I would not worry about the readings..they are in the good range.
I know a TR6 that had barely any reading at idle and on the highway it only reached 30 but it still purred along..tough engines ! Lucky me got to replace the bearings for him !
(Zoom in on the gauge...)
I have the the spin on and it is a lot easier and less messy to change the filter and I agree the engine picks up the oil faster but I don't think that's the only reason the change it out.
I use good quality 10w30 and both oil and filter get changed at start and end of season.
|Who is that in front of you Charlie?. Now I just changed oil filter brands, from Fram to Delco, and have higher oil pressure, with the same 20w50 oil, both at idle and above 2000 rpm. I now have 80 psi instead of 50 at cold. I was told by an experienced mechanic that Fram filters are not that effective in "filtering" but very good at "marketting". Anyone else have info regards filter brands??|
ps Ken I also have a spin on adaptor. I would also question the effectiveness of the old canister filter.
before my rebuild my cold oil pressure at startup was around 70 or so with a slightly high idle and when warmed up to operating temp an idle gave what looked to be about 10 psi. After the rebuild I have 90+ on a cold start and about 30 at idle fully warmed.
My original owners manual states the pressure should 45 to 65 psi at 2000 rpm under normal operating conditions..meaning at operating temp. No mention of low or high.
My boat manual states the oil pressure should be greater than 5 psi at idle and around 40 psi at around 2000 rpm.
I seems as though most engine manufacturers don't want you to be concerned with low pressure.
Had a Tr6 as an older teenager and just drove it.. and rarely changed the oil..never looked or cared what the oil pressure was and it was still running great even when the fenders started to fall off.
|HP Henry Patterson|
Oh yeah... The only time I've heard complaint of high pressure was when the needle was pegged over. In that case I believe there was a problem with the pressure relief valve that's on our engines below the distributor.
BTW..all my reading above were with 20w50.
|HP Henry Patterson|
|Don't . I repeat DON'T always trust the gauge on the dash. For crying out loud it is 35+ years old. |
I bet your internal gauge don't read right either. If your concerned get an external gauge and check it yourself against that.
My experience is exactly like Henry's before and after my rebuild. I went to a lighter grade because my pressure is high simply for the reason of not wanting my oil pressure relief valve from "kicking in". The oil filter is bypassed under this condition....not good.
Charlie gives you the reason for the spin on adaptor. One other reason is so an oil cooler can be added but I do not think it is necessary in the Canadian climate.
Pete, do you realize that picture was taken way back in Aug. 2004. MAN time flies!
Here is another one from the same day.
|Well allrighty then. I'll look again. I believe that on start-up my gauge is well passed 75 psi so I'll monitor when cold, when warm at idle and at highway speeds. |
Today was cool but sunny so I tested my OD for the first time after fixing the messed up wiring. Quite a kick when it comes on but it nicely shaves off 400 to 500 RPM at around 90kms (55). My speedo & odometer do not work at the moment so I'm guessing re how fast I was going.
Spin-on will be added to the list for next year.
The picture I posted is not my car..It's my friend Brian's car which is the brown one in Rick's picture.
I think I'm up behind Rick (leading the cruise)
|Rick, Charlie, yes I remember the cruise well. The shot was taken in the Beaver Valley, heading north. So the white car in front of Brian's in the first picture is non other than mine. |
|Pete, I thought you remember that day. It was a perfect day.|
Anyway, Ken, here is an old study/comparison on oil filters. It looks like it has been updated.
Just one more for you Pete.
|Hey, who's that short guy on the left?|
|Okay... on a beauty of a day we took a run up to Gravenhurst and the numbers were as follows:|
Upon start-up: 80 or 90 psi
Warmed up & on the highway: 75-80 psi
Hot and in OD: 70ish
Hope all this is good.
PS Charlie... yes, the main bearings were done along with Thrust Washer, Rings, Cam... and in the 90's valves, head...
|Don, I don't know who he is, but he always shows up in this shiny spiffy car and puts everyone else to shame!! You do mean the guy standing to the left of that handsome looking bloke eh?|
|That bloke be you Pete?|
Yea that short guy has even graced our shores a couple of times.
This thread was discussed between 06/10/2008 and 08/10/2008
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